True Thankfulness

by: Jill Richardson

Mon Nov 29, 2010 at 12:29:20 PM PST

Today I woke up at home, in my bed (which I felt lucky to sleep in), and looked at my clock (which I am lucky to have), and saw that it was 11am. I felt lucky that I could sleep in so late and I didn't have to wake up before dawn to make beans and tortillas from scratch for breakfast over an open fire that I had to build myself. It's freezing here in San Diego, but our house had the heat turned on, and I felt lucky for that too.

I pet my cats (who have no idea how lucky they are) and snoozed for a while, and then got up and took a hot shower, feeling thankful for the running, potable, and hot water, as well as the bathtub and the fact that, had I wanted, I could have taken a nice, hot bath instead. I saw some showers in Mexico but I don't think anyone I met has the privilege of soaking in a hot bath. And forget the fancy aromatherapy bath products.

I shaved my legs for the first time in a week (I lost my razor blade in Mexico), knowing what a silly, frivolous thing it was to do, since after all, hairless legs are not essential in life. I'm lucky that it's nothing to me to be able to afford razors and blades and that I can drive my 2009 Toyota Prius to the store (which is nearby on paved roads) to go get them.

I felt lucky for my organic, handcrafted bath products, which the people I spent the last week with in Mexico would not be able to afford if they could get to a store that sold them, which they can't. They've got only a limited choice of cheap and probably somewhat toxic brands of cleaning and personal care products.

After my shower, I put on my glasses, which I am REALLY lucky to have. I was lucky to go to the eye doctor for a new, updated prescription before I left for my trip, and I am lucky that I have fashionable Kate Spade frames that I barely had to pay anything for because I had insurance when I got them (a few years ago). I would have severe headaches all the time were it not for my glasses, not to mention my prescription drugs and the doctors who prescribed them.

Then I went for my spray-on Benadryl to treat my mosquito bites with, feeling lucky that I had it, as well as the neem oil I had during my trip, that prevented me from getting even MORE mosquito bites. And I followed it up with the organic, fancy lotion I love to use, feeling very lucky that I have it and can afford it.

After I got dressed in clothes I feel lucky to easily afford, I did something that made me feel even luckier: I got my organic Chiapas coffee out of the freezer (that I am lucky to have) and put some of it in the coffee grinder (that I am lucky to have), and then put it plus some water in the coffee maker (that I am lucky to have). And while it was brewing, I put all of my dirty clothes from the trip in the washing machine (which I am REALLY lucky to have) along with some organic, non-toxic soap (that I am lucky to have).

Then I got my fresh, organic, non-homogenized milk from grass fed cows that I am REALLY REALLY REALLY lucky to have from the fridge (that I am lucky to have), to put some of it in my coffee. The people I met in Mexico often drink ultra high temperature pasteurized milk that can sit on the shelves for a long time without refrigeration (which many don't have), or they drink powdered milk.

Last of all, I took my coffee back to my bedroom, and hopped on my laptop (which I am lucky to have), using electricity (that I am lucky to have), to post this on the internet, which I am also lucky to have. And the next thing I should probably do is brush my teeth. And you know what? I am going to feel really, really lucky when I rinse my mouth out with the potable water that comes out of the tap after I am done.

Chiapas Diaries: Day 1, Part 1 - My Yuppified Introduction to Chiapas

by: Jill Richardson

Sun Nov 28, 2010 at 19:34:31 PM PST

(I went with the group Schools for Chiapas, an organization that works with and provides aid to the Zapatistas. Check out their website if you are interested in either traveling with them to Chiapas yourself, or simply buying some artisanal goods or coffee produced by Zapatistas. Aside from the obvious politics involved in supporting Zapatistas, you are supporting human beings who live in extreme poverty and work their asses off to educate themselves and their children and provide for basic needs like water and health care.)

Greetings From the Land that Gave You Turkey

by: Jill Richardson

Wed Nov 24, 2010 at 20:44:32 PM PST

For me, it feels like camping. And I don´t like camping. We´ve got electricity that goes in and out, we´ve usually got running water (but not potable water), and in most cases we have something that resembles a bed to sleep on. I´ve had very few showers on this trip. Right now I smell like a mix of dirt, sweat, Benadryl, and neem oil. One of the Mexicans in our group told me I smell like a sailor.

When I´m in situations like this, I tend to get somewhat paralyzed. I am just so traumatized by... I don´t even know what... just being in such a different environment... that I just freeze up and can´t do anything. I´m sure the others think I´m totally lazy for not being more helpful.

Here´s the thing though. The people we are here to help live like this every day. Every single day. This is life. Handwashing clothes, no potable water, unreliable electricity (if they have it at all), no cars, a long walk to the bathroom, etc etc etc. They grow their own corn and store it for the entire year. To grind it, until recently many had to use stones. Now many people have gotten hand grinders to use. It´s a step up but it´s not exactly a Cuisenart.

In case anyone is wondering, I am safe and have felt safe the entire time. And even though I do not enjoy being mosquito bitten, hot, sweating, abd dirty, and peeing outside, I think I need this experience. How can you truly write about people if you don´t experience what their lives are like? Of course, this is still only a small part of the difficulties the people here live with. There´s no way I could carry a 120 lb bag of corn on my back like they do if I tried. I actually tried to lift one and couldn´t. I haven´t had to chop firewood, or plant corn, or walk long distances in the mountains to get places. I haven´t had to wonder if I´ll have enough food to eat. But at least I´m getting a general taste of what life is like here.

We began in an area with a cool climate in the highlands, and then yesterday traveled to a second community which also had a cool climate. Today we went from the highlands to the lowlands and from cool weather to the tropics. The mosquitoes discovered me yesterday so I´m already bitten up. Today is our first day in a malarial area, so none of us were even thinking about mosquitoes until today. Tomorrow we head to our last site, a village we will spend 2 nights in. Then we´ve got 1 more night in Palenque and we go home. Palenque´s no San Cristobal (it´s kind of a hole, compared to the yuppy paradise that San Cristobal has become) but at least there are conveniences like toilets, showers, and internet.

I hope everyone has a happy Thanksgiving. When you eat that turkey, remember that it (that is, domesticated turkeys) came from Mexico.

Mexico and My Brother

by: Jill Richardson

Sat Nov 20, 2010 at 17:01:17 PM PST

It scares me that I feel like I forget what it was like to have a brother. That is, all of my memories of him are intact of course, but the memory of that feeling, of having a person in this world who was my other half, who knew me and everything about me, who I could always make laugh and who could always make me laugh, and who loved me completely no matter what. I don't have that anymore. I fear I won't again. And it's not even something I miss on a daily basis, but when I think that I once had that and I now don't, it's sad. And when I think about my brother instead of thinking about myself, how his life was cut short unfairly and tragically and so unnecessarily... that's too sad to bear. I can't go too far down that road because it would hurt too much.

Anyway, I'm in San Cristobal de Las Casas. It's a pretty little tourist town in Chiapas, not too far from the capital, Tuxtla Gutierrez. Here in San Cristobal, you've got both high end tourists and backpackers. There's a lot of English, and a lot of stuff for sale. There are great restaurants. I can tell the stores with the REAL local handicrafts from the fakes because the fakes all sell EXACTLY the same stuff that was sold in Bolivia. All of those same alpaca hoodie sweaters with pictures of llamas on them are all here.

When we got here, we went to a place the folks I'm here with call the "Zapa Mall" because it sells handmade goods from several Zapatista communities, and we had lunch. We might have seen the famous French activist Jose Bove there, but none of us approached him and asked his name. But we DID see Peter Rosset. Wow! He sat down and chatted with us, giving us a little preview for what to expect in Cancun. The actual official proceedings are going to be lame, so the action to follow will be the 4000 Mexicans that Rosset is helping to bring there, plus hundreds from around the world who will be with them. They will hold their own alternative sessions, and I have a hunch some protesting will take place too.

As we sat and chatted, I ate some of the best tamales I've ever had. Then we split up - the folks I came here with had work to do and I wanted to make the most of my time in San Cristobal - and I went off and got one of the best hot chocolates I've ever had. And, despite my promise to myself not to do too much shopping, well... my new part time job in software is going to come through now, so when I get back I'll be on financially sound footing once again kind of soon. So I went shopping. I bought 2 beautiful Zapatista-made embroidered shirts, a purse, and a change purse to put inside it. The Zapatista imagery is incredible. I'll take pictures and post about them as soon as I can.

So far this trip is a married(?) couple from San Diego and me, with an American doctor of Chinese medicine meeting us tomorrow, and a few others coming in from around Mexico as well. And today, through chatting with Peter Rosset, we might have picked up a professor from Brazil to join us.

Tonight we're going for dinner and I am going to campaign for eating at a place called Casa del Pan (House of Bread). It's local organic food and looks DELICIOUS. And expensive. So I won't pitch too much of a fit if we eat somewhere else.

By the way, San Cristobal is COLD.

Chiapas Diaries: A Fourth Attempt at Tropical Travel

by: Jill Richardson

Thu Nov 18, 2010 at 22:11:37 PM PST

On the Road Again...

by: Jill Richardson

Mon Nov 15, 2010 at 23:15:32 PM PST

That happened 2 Sundays ago. He was getting ready for a trip to Chiapas over Thanksgiving, and wanted me to come along. I was interested but leaning toward saying no. I was actually dead set on saying no until my trip to Cancun for the climate summit (which I was starting to feel lukewarm about anyway) fell through. At this time, I was already deeply in debt from putting Bolivia on my credit card, and I did not know yet that my rabies treatment bills would exceed $3000 or that I had forgotten to pay my October car payment. And I was "on the verge" of starting a well-paying software consulting job, one that still might eventually happen but sure isn't happening quickly. As soon as the job started, I'd have no time for travel but plenty of money. I figured I better head to Chiapas soon, but I planned to go at New Years with a Global Exchange trip.

Then Peter started telling me about his organization (Schools for Chiapas) and about the trip. And... wow. He was going for the corn and coffee harvest, and to help with a new diabetes epidemic that had caused some deaths recently. In addition to that, there would be a workshop on a native, stingless bee (the melipona) whose numbers are in decline. The trip would finish up with a visit to ancient Mayan ruins. (And I've had a "thing" for the Mayans since about 5th grade, when my class studied them... ok, I'm a dork.)

So I'm going. We are leaving on a red-eye from Tijuana Thursday night and arriving in Chiapas on Friday morning. My brother died over Thanksgiving 2 years ago, so to be honest, the further I can get myself away from celebrating, the better. This will be great. I'll be doing something meaningful during this difficult time of year for me, and from what Peter's told me (which is a lot more than I've written here), this is going to be INCREDIBLE. I probably won't have internet while I'm in Mexico, but unless the mosquitoes eat me, I'll be back with lots of stories to tell on November 29.

I'm an Illegal Immigrant in Mexico (UPDATE)

by: Jill Richardson

Thu Oct 07, 2010 at 08:52:42 AM PDT

UPDATE: All is well. Sort of. I'm not done being pissed off yet. Today I returned to the airport where a wonderful woman gave me a new ticket to fly out at 5pm tonight to Peru, arriving around 11pm. Then I've got a 12 hour layover and I fly out of Lima to La Paz at 11am tomorrow. I might just get a hotel, if I can find a cheap one nearby.

Then I went to immigration, where they asked if I had proof of being in the U.S. yesterday (like a receipt or something). Fortunately, I had my vaccine record for the yellow fever vaccine I need for my Bolivian visa. For whatever reason, the doctor dated it October 2, 2010 (I am fairly certain I got the shot before then), and they took that - plus my plane ticket stub from Tijuana, dated yesterday - as good enough proof that I was telling the truth. They were going to charge me $150 or so, but since I was only in the country illegally for less than a day, the fee was $25.

I've also heard that our itinerary in Bolivia has shifted, due to some protests going on there.

Mexico Celebrates "National Corn Day" Today

by: Jill Richardson

Wed Sep 29, 2010 at 06:00:00 AM PDT

The text of the press release, when translated, sounds a little silly, but after having visited the Mexican countryside, I know full well that there is nothing silly about this event or the issue it highlights. Corn is more than just a staple food to Mexicans. It is a part of their culture. A living and evolving part of their culture, as the Mexican people have co-evolved with the corn that they domesticated from wild teosinte and carefully bred to produce corn in all varieties and colors.

Today, these native "criollo" varieties of corn are under threat of being wiped out by hybrid corn sold by multinational corporations. What's more, the agricultural methods promoted by the multinationals (Monsanto, Bayer, Dow, DuPont, and John Deere, to name a few) have resulted in chemical contamination and erosion in a big way in parts of Mexico where they have been heavily adopted. Pesticide poisonings (including deaths) are not uncommon in rural Mexico. And once the "modern" agricultural methods pushed by these companies are adopted and the soil is killed, Mexican peasants often have little recourse besides going to America to work in the fields. For more information, see my pictures and experiences from a trip to the Mexican countryside earlier this year. (Important to note is that my experience represents the area I visited in the state of Jalisco, and there are other areas of Mexico where the situation is quite different.)

Mexico Diaries, Day 12: Tequila!

by: Jill Richardson

Mon Aug 16, 2010 at 23:52:06 PM PDT

Other diaries from my trip:
Day 1: Guadalajara
Day 2 Part 1: Breakfast and the EcoStore
Day 2 Part 2: Jalisco Ecological Collective
Day 3: The Flea Market
Day 4: The Drive to Cuquio
Day 5: Delivering Aid to a Village
Day 6: The Second Aid Trip to a Village
Day 7: Conversation with a Corn Expert
Day 8, Part 1: Visit to a Rich Man's Land and an Explanation of Ejidos
Day 8, Part 2: Tour of the Local Employer, a Shoe Factory
Day 8, Part 3: The Third Aid Trip to a Village
Day 9: The Fourth Aid Trip to a Village
Day 10, Part 1: The Fifth Aid Trip to a Village
Day 10, Part 2: Microlending in Cuquio
Day 11: Pesticides

Mexico Diaries, Day 11: Pesticides

by: Jill Richardson

Wed Aug 11, 2010 at 10:58:33 AM PDT

Day 1: Guadalajara
Day 2 Part 1: Breakfast and the EcoStore
Day 2 Part 2: Jalisco Ecological Collective
Day 3: The Flea Market
Day 4: The Drive to Cuquio
Day 5: Delivering Aid to a Village
Day 6: The Second Aid Trip to a Village
Day 7: Conversation with a Corn Expert
Day 8, Part 1: Visit to a Rich Man's Land and an Explanation of Ejidos
Day 8, Part 2: Tour of the Local Employer, a Shoe Factory
Day 8, Part 3: The Third Aid Trip to a Village
Day 9: The Fourth Aid Trip to a Village
Day 10, Part 1: The Fifth Aid Trip to a Village
Day 10, Part 2: Microlending in Cuquio

Green Revolution Technology Harms Poor Farmers

by: Jill Richardson

Wed Aug 11, 2010 at 09:50:01 AM PDT

This morning, I was pleased to see that Devinder Sharma linked to my piece on his blog. He added his own comments, with a damning editorial on the international push for another Green Revolution:

While the 2nd generation-environmental impacts of Green Revolution have played havoc with the natural resource base across continents, the destruction of the farm lands, and the plight of the dying farmers, is being hastily buried under the aggressive launch of the Second Green Revolution. To avoid the finger of suspicion pointing towards them, the international scientific community in collaboration with the agribusiness industry and the policy makers, are in a desperate hurry to create a smokescreen that hides the great tragedy.

I especially appreciated this line by him:

Those who promoted Green Revolution, it is now becoming clear, were not aware of the hidden design. The complete take over of agricultural research and education across the globe by the US land grant system came in handy to programme the scientific mindset. The USAID has to be admired the way it helped change the scientific brains to the virtues of the intensive farming systems as the only way forward.

Also linked to on his blog are a few other pieces worth reading:
1. Michelle Obama Can Lead a Global Movement for Organic Food
2. Feeding India is Becoming a Difficult Task

Mexico Diaries: Day 10, Part 2 - Microlending

by: Jill Richardson

Mon Aug 02, 2010 at 20:42:57 PM PDT

If reading about the people I've visited inspires you to help, you can donate to the Center for Farmworker Families. Every penny given goes directly to these families for clothes, shoes, food, school supplies, and more.

Day 1: Guadalajara
Day 2 Part 1: Breakfast and the EcoStore
Day 2 Part 2: Jalisco Ecological Collective
Day 3: The Flea Market
Day 4: The Drive to Cuquio
Day 5: Delivering Aid to a Village
Day 6: The Second Aid Trip to a Village
Day 7: Conversation with a Corn Expert
Day 8, Part 1: Visit to a Rich Man's Land and an Explanation of Ejidos
Day 8, Part 2: Tour of the Local Employer, a Shoe Factory
Day 8, Part 3: The Third Aid Trip to a Village
Day 9: The Fourth Aid Trip to a Village
Day 10, Part 1: The Fifth Aid Trip to a Village

Mexico Diaries: Table of Contents

by: Jill Richardson

Sun Aug 01, 2010 at 00:00:00 AM PDT

Jalisco
In July, I headed to the state of Jalisco, Mexico, to learn about the impacts of the Green Revolution and NAFTA on corn production there. Unlike the corn grown in the U.S., most of the corn grown in Mexico is for human consumption. Those in power who passed NAFTA promised environmental and economic benefits. Unfortunately, the treaty undoubtedly resulted in economic and environmental harm, particularly in Mexico (although arguably in the U.S. as well). For an overall perspective on what I saw on the trip, read my Alternet piece, "The Ploy to Promote Genetically Engineered Seeds and Pesticides to Poor Mexican Farmers Is Impoverishing Their Communities."

Pre-Trip Blogging:
Part 1: Mexico Fires Its Corn Farmers
Part 2: NAFTA... Not Implemented As Planned
Part 3: NAFTA's Impacts on Genetic and Soil Erosion in Mexico
A Profile of Cuquio, Jalisco
Mexican Agriculture By the Numbers

Day 1: Guadalajara
Day 2 Part 1: Breakfast and the EcoStore
Day 2 Part 2: Jalisco Ecological Collective
Day 3: The Flea Market
Day 4: The Drive to Cuquio
Day 5: Delivering Aid to a Village
Day 6: The Second Aid Trip to a Village
Day 7: Conversation with a Corn Expert
Day 8, Part 1: Visit to a Rich Man's Land and an Explanation of Ejidos
Day 8, Part 2: Tour of the Local Employer, a Shoe Factory
Day 8, Part 3: The Third Aid Trip to a Village
Day 9: The Fourth Aid Trip to a Village
Day 10, Part 1: The Fifth Aid Trip to a Village
Day 10, Part 2: Microlending in Cuquio
Day 11: Pesticides
Day 12: Tequila!

Other Recommended Reading:
The Nation: "Retreat to Subsistence"
Tim Wise: "Agricultural Dumping Under NAFTA"
"The Environmental & Social Impacts of Economic Liberalization on Corn Production in Mexico" by Alejandro Nadal.
Swine Flu, NAFTA, and U.S. Farm Subsidies
Field of Dreams by Stephanie Ogburn

Chiapas
In November, I visited Chiapas, Mexico's southernmost state, during the time of the coffee and corn harvests. I spent my time split between the highlands and lowlands, working with and learning about the Zapatistas (an indigenous insurgent group).

Day 1, Part 1: My Yuppified Introduction to Chiapas
Day 1, Part 2: An Introduction to Zapatistas
Day 2, Part 1: Something's Weird in Zapatista Territory
Day 2, Part 2: Our First Day with the Zapatistas
Day 3, Part 1: A Full Day with the Zapatistas in the Highlands
Day 3, Part 2: A Trilingual, Multicultural Corn Experiment
Day 4, Part 1: Zapatista Agriculture and a Shower
Day 4, Part 2: This Corn Ain't Roundup Ready
Day 5, Part 1: Moi's Rant
Day 5, Part 2: The Students' Orchard
Day 5, Part 3: The Students' Ceremony
Day 5, Part 4: From the Highlands to the Jungle
Day 6, Part 1: The Market in Palenque
Day 6, Part 2: Zapatistas in the Jungle
Day 6, Part 3: The Poster
Day 6, Part 4: The Poster, Continued
Day 7, Part 1: The Stingless Bee Workshop
Day 7, Part 2: The Stingless Bee Workshop Continued
Day 8, Part 1: Visit to a Family's Home

Mexico Diaries: Day 10, Part 1 - A Village With Enough to Eat

by: Jill Richardson

Sat Jul 31, 2010 at 23:19:13 PM PDT

If reading about the people I've visited inspires you to help, you can donate to the Center for Farmworker Families. Every penny given goes directly to these families for clothes, shoes, food, school supplies, and more.

Day 1: Guadalajara
Day 2 Part 1: Breakfast and the EcoStore
Day 2 Part 2: Jalisco Ecological Collective
Day 3: The Flea Market
Day 4: The Drive to Cuquio
Day 5: Delivering Aid to a Village
Day 6: The Second Aid Trip to a Village
Day 7: Conversation with a Corn Expert
Day 8, Part 1: Visit to a Rich Man's Land and an Explanation of Ejidos
Day 8, Part 2: Tour of the Local Employer, a Shoe Factory
Day 8, Part 3: The Third Aid Trip to a Village
Day 9: The Fourth Aid Trip to a Village

Mexico Diaries: Day 9 - "Sometimes We Eat, Sometimes We Don't"

by: Jill Richardson

Fri Jul 30, 2010 at 16:05:07 PM PDT

If reading about the people I've visited inspires you to help, you can donate to the Center for Farmworker Families. Every penny given goes directly to these families for clothes, shoes, food, school supplies, and more.

Day 1: Guadalajara
Day 2 Part 1: Breakfast and the EcoStore
Day 2 Part 2: Jalisco Ecological Collective
Day 3: The Flea Market
Day 4: The Drive to Cuquio
Day 5: Delivering Aid to a Village
Day 6: The Second Aid Trip to a Village
Day 7: Conversation with a Corn Expert
Day 8, Part 1: Visit to a Rich Man's Land and an Explanation of Ejidos
Day 8, Part 2: Tour of the Local Employer, a Shoe Factory
Day 8, Part 3: The Third Aid Trip to a Village