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How I Went Hungry at Slow Food Nation

by: Michele Simon

Mon Sep 01, 2008 at 10:30:50 AM PDT


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( - promoted by Jill Richardson)

I should preface this post by admitting that as a vegetarian, I was skeptical of attending the Slow Food Nation event this weekend in San Francisco. I prefer to promote the idea that we should eat less meat, because I don't believe that the world can maintain its current meat-eating habits on locally-produced animal products.  

But there is still much common ground, and I support eating locally, shop at my farmers market, and just love everything about fresh produce. So I decided to spend Sunday afternoon at the Civic Center, roaming around the Victory Garden and other festivities. Upon arrival, I was impressed with the large crowds, array of booths, and the garden was lovely.

While it was great to see so many people there, it was also almost impossible to get close to many of the farmer booths, especially those giving out free food samples. But that's not my gripe. I was perfectly willing and eager to pay for some prepared  food on the other side of the plaza. But when my partner and I went looking for something to eat, we could find nothing. Every single booth we saw was selling another kind of dead animal. (He called it "carcass row.")

So I went over to the information booth and asked if they knew of anybody selling vegetarian food. The sympathetic Slow Food Nation rep said, no, she didn't see anything either, and since she was vegetarian, understood our plight. She said that other people had also complained, so the feedback would be duly noted for next time.

We did finally find some bread to go with our cucumber, and enjoyed some nice pear juice on the lawn, on a glorious day. But it still felt like a slap in the face. I know of several local vegetarian restaurants that would have been thrilled to have been there. (And yes, some do source their ingredients locally.) It's also not a great way to bring in new supporters. There are many people who believe in the precepts of slow food, but who choose not to eat meat. We are doing our part to save the planet by eating lower on the food chain. To exclude vegetarians does not help build the movement. At the information booth, they were trying to sign up new members. I will wait until next year to see if they heard the feedback.  

Michele Simon :: How I Went Hungry at Slow Food Nation
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I have to say I was curious about the (4.00 / 2)
meat-centric focus of the event, particularly because SFN gave so much attention to Michael Pollan who specifically tells his readers to eat mostly plants.

The taste pavilions had limited animal-free products... some Indian breads, a Native American dish, beer, wine, spirits, jams and honeys, coffee, tea, and olive oil... a long list but most of those are things to drink. But then there were the dairy foods - pizza, cheese, ice cream - and the meats - fish, charcuterie, sausage pizza, buffalo. Next time around I'd appreciate some fruits, veggies, and nuts as inclusions, simply because they are the foundations of a healthy diet even for meat eaters.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman


That's interesting... (4.00 / 2)
I've got to admit I've never been much into the Slow Food organization myself, but I wouldn't have thought that their events would be so heavily skewed towards meat.  

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Slow Food is more geared towards celebrating taste and community though, rather than a main focus on sustainability, so I think our current meat-heavy culture is a strong influence on the organization and their events.

I didn't go, although it would have been a nice convenient excuse for me to be able get down to the Bay Area again for a few days...

That's really sort of strange, though.  I would have thought an event like that, especially in San Francisco (and where they even went out and planted a showcase Victory Garden), would have been at least somewhat vegetarian-friendly.  

I'm a vegetarian, too...and on my visit to family back in New Jersey a few months ago, I realized just how much Portland has spoiled me.  Every place we went out to eat there (even at a 'progressive-ish' semi-green brewpub) only had maybe three or four vegetarian options, and most of those were just simple salads.  

It was a bit of a culture shock from here in Portland, where even barbecue restaurants have about half-vegetarian menus...


I don't really understand the Slow Food love affair with meat (4.00 / 1)
I get that it's part of most people's diets and therefore showcasing higher quality, sustainably raised meats is a good idea. But why they seem to ignore the idea that some people don't eat meat? Beats me.

This isn't representative of all Slow Food, just my own local "convivium" - but they have restaurant recommendations on their site and last I checked they excluded my favorite restaurant, Spread, a restaurant that would totally meet their standards if not exceed them. I mentioned this to a woman from San Diego Slow Food and when I told her the place was vegetarian she said she wouldn't even go eat there because she needs meat in her meals. I REALLY don't get that. I've taken several non-veggies to this place and everyone loves it.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman


[ Parent ]
Yeah, I kinda figured... (4.00 / 1)
each local chapter (okay, I'll say it - 'convivium'.  Heh...) would have their own preferences.  Are the ones in other countries as meat-heavy as American chapters?

I'm not a member, but from what I understand Slow Food Portland was the first local American convivium, founded in 1991 shortly after Slow Food USA was formed.  I wonder if this chapter is more veg-friendly than most?  I can't find much on their very basic website, but this sounds like they may be -

One of the events will be a luncheon (August 10) al fresco at Nana Cardoon, a garden-based learning center. Hosts Charlene Murdock and Richard White are passionate about Slow Food and Terra Madre having attending both gatherings in past few years. The menu draws from both Gales Meadow Farm and Nana Cardoon including polenta made with a special variety of corn grown at Nana Cardoon; Anne's vegetables baked in a clay oven, farm eggs, salad greens and more. And an hors d'oeuvre will be served in the root cellar and Terra Madre farmer delegate Anne Berblinger has offered a tour of her farm after the meal at Nana Cardoon.

Slow Food Portland also did some promotion of that Ken Meter "Future of Food in Oregon" talk that I attended here back in April, even though that one was arranged by Oregon Food Bank.

You would think that since the most vocal and active proponents of local food tend to largely be farmers rather than ranchers or small artisan meat producers, they would have more influence on groups like Slow Food.  Especially in vegetarian-friendly West Coast cities.    


[ Parent ]
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