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Book Review: Vegan Soul Kitchen by Bryant Terry

by: Jill Richardson

Thu Mar 26, 2009 at 07:43:53 AM PDT


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Bryant Terry, co-author with Anna Lappe on the book Grub, has a new cookbook out called Vegan Soul Kitchen: Fresh, Healthy, and Creative African-American Cuisine. I received my copy yesterday. My review is below - along with a recipe that I tried (mmm!) and some pictures.
Jill Richardson :: Book Review: Vegan Soul Kitchen by Bryant Terry
When I heard about this book, I got really excited about it for several reasons. For one thing, my moral status as a "vegan" is approximately like being a pregnant nun. I believe in being a vegan and several times I have resolved to be one. But I don't do it very well. I'm a vegetarian with a guilty conscience. Delicious vegan recipes are a very welcome addition to my kitchen.

Second, my experience in life and as an activist has been a very white one. I'm one of those people who can't go on the site "Stuff White People Like" because it's too damn embarrassing - it totally describes me. And it bothers me. Because food issues so disproportionately affect minority ethnic groups, I think it's crucial that our food movement is multi-racial. That makes activists like Bryant Terry or Will Allen that much more important.

And last, I am absolutely thrilled to see somebody embracing and owning African-American culture and celebrating it in a book like this. I was so bothered and ashamed by the photoshopped images of the White House with a watermelon patch as its lawn recently - and here's Terry publishing a soul food cook book with an entire section of watermelon dishes. Really f*ing GOOD watermelon dishes! That just makes me so happy. Take your culture back from assholes who would like to make you ashamed of it! Hell yeah!

I'll admit, normally I'm not a cookbook person. I like to choose my recipes around the ingredients I already have in the house, not the other way around. That typically means opening the fridge and inventing very simple recipes (i.e. wash apple, slice, eat). And it's hard to deal with keep a book open to the right page and not getting it wet and dirty in the kitchen. But in this case, I think it's worth any amount of hassle. From what I've seen flipping through the book, the recipes are great.

Terry starts off with six "favorites" that he likes to make over and over and expects you will too. They are:
1. Citrus Collards with Raisin Redux (recipe below)
2. Agave-Sweetened Orange-Orange Pekoe Tea
3. Sweet Sweetback's Salad with Roasted Beet Vinaigrette
4. Uncle Don's Double Mustard Greens and Roasted Yam Soup
5. Cajun-Creole-Spiced Tempeh Pieces with Creamy Grits
6. Open-Faced BBQ Tempeh Sandwich with Carrot-Cayenne Coleslaw

Next up, he has a section on watermelon recipes, showing how you can use all parts of the fruit - including the rind in a very delicious looking Citrus and Spice Pickled Watermelon Rind (made with cinnamon and cloves). I am SO making that!

After that, the cookbook becomes a bit more "typical," with sections on soups & stews, greens, drinks, appetizers, desserts, etc. However, the cookbook can hardly be called typical. It has too much personality. Each recipe recommends a soundtrack to play while you cook it. The names of dishes are incredibly fun and creative. You can tell that Terry LOVES this food and has a LOT of fun cooking it. And, thankfully, the dishes aren't too complex and most don't have too ridiculous numbers of ingredients (a pet peeve of mine - no way I'm ever cooking anything if the recipe calls for 30 different ingredients).

Even though the dishes all look tasty, before giving the book a good review, I wanted to cook something to verify that the instructions are easy to follow. I chose the citrus collards recipe, mainly because I had the ingredients on hand. Sort of. I had some Bordeaux spinach (instead of collards), olive oil, really good farmers' market raisins, sea salt, and fresh oranges that I could juice. No garlic but oh well.

The recipe makes 4 servings (I was shooting for 1) and calls for:
Course sea salt
2 large bunches of collard greens, ribs removed, cut into a chiffonade, rinsed, and drained
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
2/3 c. raisins
1/3 c. freshly squeezed orange juice


My spinach

  • In a large pot over high heat, bring 3 quarts of water to a boil and add 1 tablespoon salt. Add the collards and cook, uncovered, for 8 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile prepare a large bowl of ice water to cool the collards.
  • Remove the collards from the heat, drain, and plunge them into the bowl of ice water to stop cooking and set the color of the greens. Drain by gently pressing the greens against a collander.
  • In a medium sized saute pan, combine the olive oil and the garlic and raise the heat to medium. Saute for 1 minute. Add the collards, raisins, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Saute for 3 minutes, stirring frequently.

Obviously, without collards or garlic, I had to skip a lot of that. My spinach was very tender so I didn't think they'd need more than 3 minutes cooking in the saute pan. I picked up the recipe where it says to put the oil, raisins, collards, and salt in the saute pan.

Add orange juice and cook for an additional 15 seconds. Do not overcook (collards should be bright green). Season with additional salt to taste if needed and serve immediately. (This also makes a tasty filling for quesadillas.)


Yum

So there you have it. Easy to follow instructions, and a delicious meal for me. I realize I didn't make the recipe properly but for what it's worth, my version of it tasted GREAT. I was skeptical about the orange juice but it wasn't overpowering at all - just a little hint of citrus. The salt was perfect too - just enough, not too much. And the raisins were delicious. They made eating my greens taste like eating a treat. I have a hunch this would be even tastier with garlic (and with real collards) so I'll have to look for those things at the market this weekend and make it again.

All in all, I say this book totally rocks! (And don't hesitate to buy it even if you're not vegan. It wouldn't hurt any of us to eat some vegan food once in a while, and the recipes in this book are for "normal" food, not strange vegan concoctions like Tofurkey or Tofutti or any other processed foods with names starting with "tofu.")

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didn't know you are a vegan wannabee (4.00 / 4)
is there seitan in the cookbook?

I'm a really good vegan cook. I'm not a vegan, but my 19 year old became one at 14. So until she left for college, I perfected my "veganized" recipes. for a while I thought of writing a cookbook called mix and match because of having to cook for both vegans and non vegans. If you want, I would be happy to post my vegan recipes once a week. Here's one for collard greens..

Danis' collard greens (Dani is my daughter)

1 bunch of collard greens
one small onion
1 teaspoon or more cumin
extra virgin olive oil

remove stems and clean collards. in a pan saute small onion
til soft. add cumin and collards. cook for about 5 minutes.
then add a enough water to steam. you don't want to boil
but steam. Cover w/lid and steam til done. about 20 minutes.
drain and add salt if you like. I also add a little of freshly grated nutmeg  


sounds interesting (3.67 / 3)
I have a whole library of cookbooks. I don't use any one of them all that often, but every now and then I want some ideas for something, and they and the Inet are my sources.

A trick for keeping your cookbooks clean is to buy a piece of 1/4" or so lucite and cover them with it while open and in the kitchen. Also you can get cookbook stands, sort of like dictionary stands

"If God were to appear to starving people, he would not dare to appear in any other form than food." - Mahatma Gandhi


WoW! (4.00 / 2)
first off, the cookbook sounds glorious! i'm not vegan or vegetarian but i like to be able to provide that type food for friends who are. this book will fill that niche nicely!

second, what a wonderful review jill! you sucked me right in & made me want to hear more about this book. this:

And last, I am absolutely thrilled to see somebody embracing and owning African-American culture and celebrating it in a book like this. I was so bothered and ashamed by the photoshopped images of the White House with a watermelon patch as its lawn recently - and here's Terry publishing a soul food cook book with an entire section of watermelon dishes. Really f*ing GOOD watermelon dishes! That just makes me so happy. Take your culture back from assholes who would like to make you ashamed of it! Hell yeah!

i have been advocating for some time embracing the 'labels' this PC society saddles you with, then they will do you no harm. & here you are saying nearly the same thing (or i took it as such)... DFH? why yes i am, thank you! redneck? well, at times~~yeah! uneducated? yes. & proud of how much i've taught myself, thank you very much!! embrace the labels & who you are!!!

this is a wonderful review. i'm anxious to try the collard recipe.

come firefly-dreaming with me....


I hope you like it (4.00 / 2)
email me if you want more details before making a purchase (or just ask here). I still need to do a better job going through the book. I really wish watermelon was in season!!!

As for the race thing, it's been INSANE ever since Obama started running for President. I've heard things that I would have expected people to say in, like, the 1940's - but not now! One friend got in trouble at work because he reamed out a guy who called Obama the N-word. His boss told him that he needed to allow his co-workers to feel comfortable expressing their views. My friend was pissed off and unapologetic, as he should be! And that happened in New York City.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman


[ Parent ]
I don't know how to say this so I'll just ask (4.00 / 2)
Are those butterflies on your plate pooping? Wow second time I've used that word today... that's more frequent than normal.

No protein in that dish? Put some beans in there and it would be ready for my dinner plate.

Tempeh kind of has me scared. How fermented is it?

Final question: can you share that roasted beet vinigrette recipe?


they aren't pooping butterflies (4.00 / 2)
they are dragonflies. I got the plates in Nice, France. They say something in French but I guess I'd need Patric to translate.

As for the protein - it can be a side. Or you can add beans. I bet it'd taste good w/ beans.

Re: tempeh, I actually don't like it very much.  

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman


[ Parent ]
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