| We stayed at the Hotel Niles, a lovely small hotel just outside the main tourist district of Sultanhamet (where you'll find the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Topkapi Palace and other major historic sites). We were only a fifteen minute walk or short tram ride from those sights, yet stayed in a quieter, more 'real' area of the city. Out our window, we could see into the workshop of a shoemaker, situated above a row of sportswear shops. Not some people's idea of scenic, perhaps, but I love being able to watch local people just going through their daily routine. Here is the proprieter of one of those shops, enjoying a glass of tea as he awaits customers:
The buffet breakfast served on the top floor of the hotel, with a view out over the Sea of Marmara, was a great way to start the day.
It was here that I first learned that the eating would be great. There were sliced cucumbers and tomatoes that were just bursting with flavor, several varieties of local cheese, and baskets of sweet and savory breads and pastries baked by the mother of a hotel staff member, as well as olives and dried fruits. I especially loved the two big bowls, one filled with chopped fresh fruit and the other with incredibly rich, thick, creamy fresh yogurt, that were perfect for mixing together. I pigged out every morning!
A trip to a produce market (part of a much larger flea market) gave us a peek at one source of all that great eating. Here a a few highlights:
Strawberries, anyone? I'm amazed that the ones at the bottom of the pile weren't reduced to shortcake topping!
Or how about some tomatoes?
I think this is the biggest pile of green beans I've ever seen! And the eggplants and squashes don't look bad either.
Here's the makings for a nice salad.
And don't forget the artichokes!
But you didn't have to go to the market to grab a healthy snack. During the day, you could usually find a corn on the cob vendor:
But the vendors I found even more whimsical were the cucumber carts. Yes, the cucumbers were so delicious that they sold them on the street, peeled for you while you waited:
At night, pushcart vendors would appear selling fresh and dried fruits and nuts, doing a brisk business from late-night crowds.
We had plenty of fine meals in restaurants as well, from humble kebab joints (in fact, there's a great one next to the Hotel Niles) to excellent fish and meats. Istanbul is known for its seafood, and I certainly enjoyed all that I sampled (Mrs. DebtorsPrison isn't so hot on seafood, but even she enjoyed some of it, especially when we went out for a meal of miscellaneous appetizers.) Many seafood restaurants have their fish on display for you to choose from, and it's also very reassuring when you can actually watch the restaurateurs running across the alley for fresh produce:
Turkish coffee is strong, served in tiny cups with the grounds settled to the bottom. Best drunk in traditional cafes like the Sark Kahvesi in the Grand Bazaar:
And one way to spend your evening is to enjoy a nice cup of tea while puffing away on a waterpipe:
But let's not forget the dessert. I totally pigged out on the many varieties of baklava available here:
Well, that's all for now. I'm sure you want to go get yourselves a snack about now... |
