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The Corona Hand Mill and Homemade Tortillas

by: Crider

Mon Aug 02, 2010 at 14:56:01 PM PDT


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( - promoted by Jill Richardson)

The Corona mill isn't a grain mill, it's a corn mill. Got that?

Catalog page circa 1929.

I'll admit it took me a long time to figure this out. I've been aware of these mills way back in the early 1970s when I used to subscribe to Mother Earth News magazine and dreamt of a life of subsistence farming to replace the suffocating suburban lifestyle of a twenty year old. Buy whole wheat in bulk and grind your own flour for pennies!

To this day, people buy these things and then complain at how totally useless it is for bread flour.

“I bought this for the sole purpose of making bread flour. I got it, set it up, put some wheat into it, tightened basically as far as it would go, and the berries came out almost exactly as they went in. Plus, there were little iron filings from the burrs mixed in. Great.”

reported an unhappy customer on Amazon's Weston Cereal and Multi-Grain Mill customer review page.

Crider :: The Corona Hand Mill and Homemade Tortillas

 

The original Corona mill was developed by Landers, Frary and Clark of Connecticut some time before 1900 and was apparently sold worldwide. In 1951, a company, LANDERS Y CIA. S. A., was formed in Columbia to make these for home nixtamal production. It still produces this ancient cast-iron, hot tin plated mill along with Columbian rival Victoria, and the Mexican-made mill Estrella. These three mills are virtually identical, the Estrella being painted rather than tin-plated. There are many other brands of the same-design corn mills and I believe those are made in China (note the rubber pad on the upper part of the clamp).

 

  
Victoria and Estrella mills.

I've been making more tortillas and other pan breads lately because summer weather makes oven baking a sweaty pain in the ass. I had been using dried masa harina and the result is much better than store-bought tortillas. Realizing that GMO corn is the norm these days, I went looking for organic masa harina and didn't have any luck. I can get whole corn from my local co-op for only about $0.50 a pound if I buy it in 25 lb. bags, so why not get one of those cheap mills and make the good stuff myself? Ebay has new Coronas for $64.29, Victorias for $60.24 and the Estrella for $58.99, including shipping. Shipping is a killer for these heavy cast-iron mills.

I found a used Corona for $24.50 with $8.99 shipping. I later found the all-time best deal at Amazon for a new Victoria Corn Grinder at $34.99 with free shipping (I had been searching for 'grain mill' and missed it).


My dirty and scuffed Corona mill of unknown vintage.

When I received it, I took it apart and washed it in hot soapy water. The scuff marks didn't disappear, and I found a bit of rust inside. I lightly oiled the whole thing with food-grade mineral oil (baby laxative). The grinding burrs show little, if any, wear. Perhaps it was originally owned by someone who expected to make bread flour with it!

There's just one Mexican grocery in the county where I live, so next time I was in the area, I picked up some reddish blue whole corn and a little package of Cal (slaked lime). I tried grinding some of the untreated dry corn and the mill was a lot stronger than I expected! Corn meal, grits or polenta is easily ground with by adjusting the coarseness of the grind. A few days later, I made some fresh tortilla masa.


Rinsed whole corn.

Rather than explain the whole nixtamalization process, there's a video on Youtube of the Alton Brown's excellent show "Tort(illa) Reform" that was written by professionals.

I used the recipe from that show for my masa. I've seen similar nixtamalization recipes on the net for tamales and posole that require longer cooking times than for tortillas.


Finished fresh masa. The wet corn went through the Corona so easily. No metate for me! The nixtamal smell is a lot less strong than when using dried masa harina. My kitchen lights don't show enough of the blue spectrum.

Then I made some extra-large sopes.

I hand-formed the very thick tortilla. Cook on a medium hot pan for about 30 seconds, then flip over and cook the other side for about 1 ½ or 2 minutes.

 


Remove the tortilla from the pan, flip it most-cooked side up and form a little lip around the edge. Return the tortilla to the hot frypan and spread with refried beans.


In another pan quickly fry a bit of good-quality mozzerella, string cheese or Oaxaca cheese. I used a not-so-good quality mozzerella here and it spread like butter.

 


Add shredded lettuce to the sope and top with the fried cheese. My cheese turned to glop.

 


Finally, add salsa, onion and chopped tomato.

 

Tortillas made from fresh masa taste and smell much better than ones made from dried masa harina, which in turn are much better than store-bought corn tortillas.

I've since made great peanut butter with my Corona, and expect that I can do from-scratch falafels by grinding soaked chickpeas. If I wanted to make my own tofu, it would be great for grinding soybeans. The home-brewing crowd uses these to crack malted barley for beermaking. Survivalists tout these as necessary items to have on hand for the ever-impending collapse of civilization.

I saw that flour-mill maker Retsel offers stone grinding-wheel kit for Coronas for only $29.95, but I still don't think the fit of the Corona mill is precise enough to get good flour from them. It's corn mill, remember?

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I. AM. DROOLING. (4.00 / 3)
This looks amazing.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
Thanks for the front-paging (4.00 / 3)
I've been both excited and sad to read your diaries during your visit to Mexico.

[ Parent ]
So true (4.00 / 2)
The last village was a good one. It was good to end the trip on an up-note. And sad as it is, it's a sign of their prosperity that they had the cockfighting. If you're starving, you don't give food to a bunch of extra roosters that you keep for entertainment value.  

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
what a great piece! (4.00 / 3)
I love stories about how to find the right tools and techniques to utilize the raw ingredients YOU want, not what some corporate entity is trying to monopolize the market with.

Really neat!

"If God were to appear to starving people, he would not dare to appear in any other form than food." - Mahatma Gandhi


But cruel! (4.00 / 2)
I haven't been able to eat in two days, and still can't.  Screw it, I'm gonna go get a sope from the truck down the street tomorrow anyways.

;)

Coming soon to a Philadelphia near you!


[ Parent ]
sick? (4.00 / 2)
I threw my jaw out about a week ago when an unnamed blogger at an unnamed blog jumped me. Woke up the next morning with the left side cramped shut, hurt to chew. Still getting over that. Repressed dental aggression hellstorm.

Must be something in the Internet.

"If God were to appear to starving people, he would not dare to appear in any other form than food." - Mahatma Gandhi


[ Parent ]
Yeah... (4.00 / 2)
I used to never get sick, but now I do all the time.  Sucks.  I'm falling apart at 30.

:/

Coming soon to a Philadelphia near you!


[ Parent ]
not good. (4.00 / 2)
I can only suggest the obvious, since you are far from being teh stupid...trial and error. Change things, one at a time. See what happens.

What kind of sick, if you don't mind my asking?

I got gluten intolerant awhile back. Not diagnosed by a doc, but I tried various things (including entirely quitting alcohol for several months). When I tried quitting anything with the triticaceae, including beer, etc., I picked up immediately. Beer still gives me the runs some, when I drink even a bit. Other kinds of alcohol don't bother my digestion at all.

It's limiting, but having everything you eat go right through you is pretty limiting too.

Of course, I have no idea what's going on with you, because I don't know what "sick" is for you in this context.

And gluten intolerance doesn't make you not be able to eat, just not be able to digest. But that was how I figured it out, just changing things until I hit on it. But up until then, I was getting really scared, because when I quit alcohol, I bumped up the carbs a lot to compensate, and not only did my digestion continue to go south, but I started getting seriously ennervated...I thought I had freaking cancer. But I can see now that it was more like malnutrition.

 

"If God were to appear to starving people, he would not dare to appear in any other form than food." - Mahatma Gandhi


[ Parent ]
Ingredients (4.00 / 3)
Crider probably is correct, his lunch was delicious because the ingredients were fresh. Another possibility is, he got to choose what corn he used, not what Maseca wanted him to use, as you point out.

[ Parent ]
Our friends at Maseca (4.00 / 2)
are owned by the Quaker Oats Company. And so it goes.

[ Parent ]
Panucho, salbute, tlacoyo, huarache... (4.00 / 3)
Interesting wiki article on sope and its regional variants.  I've seen huarache at the taco truck downtown I'm probably gonna hit for breakfast this morning.  Probably won't get it, but I wanna note the difference between their sope and the huarache.  Just the shape / size?

Coming soon to a Philadelphia near you!

huarache (4.00 / 2)
size/shape should be the difference. I've had huarache at a restaurant whose owners were from Mexico City.

[ Parent ]
Hmm (4.00 / 3)
I ate sopes the whole time I was in Mexico and didn't even know it. It's what I got when I ordered a gordita, it seems.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
lots of really good Mexican food (4.00 / 2)
here in places like Kennett Square which is the mushroom capital of the world I think. Some stayed on not to pick mushrooms but to open restaurants and bakeries. And Norristown has at least 3 really good authentic Mexican restaurants. But there are things like freshly caught shrimp that I watched being caught and then cooked and served in Isla Muheres.

[ Parent ]
And can I just say (4.00 / 2)
I miss the food from Mexico already. The stuff I get here is no substitute even though I'm in San Diego.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
Kinda ruins it, eh? (4.00 / 1)
I'll probably never be able to eat tacos and burritos back in Jersey again, and I'm only in Portland.  Even Southern California would ruin Portland's Mexican food for me, I think, let alone eating in Mexico itself!

Coming soon to a Philadelphia near you!

[ Parent ]
Yeah so okay, that was it... (4.00 / 2)
The difference was the size and the shape - the huarache was $5 and about the size of two sopes, which went for $3 each.

There was also a slight difference in ingredients, one came with pico de gallo and avocado, and the other came with cheese.  All the other ingredients (lettuce, beans, choice of meat or vegetarian, etc) were the same.  The sopes seemed heavier on the toppings, at least from the picture on their menu board.

Coming soon to a Philadelphia near you!


[ Parent ]
Source for that corn (4.00 / 2)
Someone on the Fresh Loaf said that since I'm in Northern California, the corn I got at the Mexican grocery probably came from this grower, CA West. It's officially a red corn and their photos look almost exactly as what I have.
In the past, inconsistent practices in production have caused many traditional recipes to change and replace the Red Hominy with a less expensive and more accessible white corn. CA West has developed methods to deliver this product to the consumer affordably while not compromising the robust color and taste of this traditional ingredient.

Hey, maybe it's not GMO!


red corn (4.00 / 2)
That's way cool. Jill, in one of her diaries, said that people she visited are particular about which corn variety they grow for tortillas. Then, in a photo, she showed red corn.

Did you know red corn was traditional when you bought it? I didn't know that. (I'm supposing the groceria had red corn precisely because it's traditional?)

So. Baltimore, consider yourself challenged. I'm agonna find out if anyone here uses red corn.

Jay, start beating on those people who run the food carts to get red corn and make fresh masa. Or, find a source of red corn, get a corn mill, and start a business supplying red corn masa. Bob's Red Mill masa harina is labeled "Golden corn flour", which tells me it isn't from red corn.

Jill, I inferred that people in the ranchos make their own masa. Do you have any knowledge of whether the kitchens you used make their own, or at least use masa made locally with red corn?


[ Parent ]
Didn't know much (4.00 / 2)
Did you know red corn was traditional when you bought it?

Not really, although I've seen different-colored corn here and there. At first, I thought it was blue corn. Then I thought it might be purple corn. After seeing Jill's articles, I wonder if Monsanto GMO products now include different-colored corn in Mexico?  


[ Parent ]
I'm gonna be up in St. Johns this week again... (4.00 / 1)
Been planning to hit a little Mexican grocery, Tienda Santa Cruz, in that neighborhood for a while now.  Mainly for their tacos de tripa, but I'll check to see if they have that while I'm there too.  There are a whole bunch of nearby little Mexican groceries I've never been to, many over along SE Foster and along 82nd Avenue.  

Yesenia's is one I've heard good things about, and it's only about 27 blocks away from me.  There's another, Tortilleria y Tienda, that I've heard good things about but they're, yeeeeesh, NE Glisan and 162nd!  That's like 175 blocks!  Yeah, that would be a special bus trip.  Heh...

I don't know how the Mexican folks running the taco trucks will take to suggestions on tortilla-making from a gringo, though...

;)

Coming soon to a Philadelphia near you!


[ Parent ]
Memory Lane (4.00 / 2)
A friend pointed out that the old Mother Earth News articles are archived on their website. And there was the article about the Corona. That was a LONG TIME AGO! I'm amazed at myself for remembering the jist of that article from almost forty years ago [pats self on back].

"With a Corona grain mill, you can transform inexpensive, bulk grain direct from the farm or a feed and seed store ... into piping hot steamy, muffins and other delicious end products - right in your own kitchen."


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