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Mexico Diaries: Day 1 - Guadalajara

by: Jill Richardson

Tue Jul 20, 2010 at 18:47:12 PM PDT


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Guadalajara was where my parents went on their honeymoon, so it's a city I've long been curious about. Of course, my mom spent much of that trip suffering from food poisoning, so I was a bit hesitant to visit too. As one of Mexico's largest cities, Guadalajara is a bustling metropolis. From the plane, all of a sudden lush greenery gave way to a cement jungle of densely packed, gray streets and buildings and no visible green space.

Jill Richardson :: Mexico Diaries: Day 1 - Guadalajara
Fortunately, from the ground, Guadalajara looks much nicer than it did from the air. Our group of 11, which ranges from an immigration lawyer and a professor who runs a non-profit for farmworker families to an idealistic community college student, a nurse, a newly graduated psychology grad student, a fourth year PhD student working on agricultural development, and others, boarded a bus at the airport which took us to our hotel. On the way we passed barrios - slums - as well as numerous billboards and stores hawking both American and Mexican brands and products. Pepsi has quite an advertising presence here.

Finally we reached our hotel, which is a site to see as well as a place to stay. It's a green hotel, created from a century-old adobe building. The sheets on the beds are organic, as is the food served in the restaurant. Some of the food - particularly herbs, mangoes, and even eggplant - are grown on site at the hotel. The soaps provided are all made locally by an artisan.


A view of the hotel's courtyard


A planter with herbs


Swallowtail caterpillar in the hotel garden


Eggplant blossom


The garden


An internal courtyard in the hotel


Better view of the mural


My room


The bathroom... and OMG the soap smells good!

The hotel owner told us about future projects he'd like to take on to make his hotel even greener: composting toilets and grey-water, for example. Then he told us about his CSA that he runs. He held up a pint of cherry tomatoes. "These organic tomatoes," he said, "Are grown in the Mexican state of Sinaloa. The farmer sells them for $1. Then they are exported to the U.S. and sold for $3-$4. Mexicans grow this good food but get to eat none of it. Mexicans are getting fucked."

He showed us several other products - organic limes grown in Colima, Mexico, that go to Holland, and an organic mango that goes to the U.S. But he's managed to divert some of these organic products from the export market. He buys them for his CSA and then sells them at cost, charging only a small amount to cover the cost of transporting the goods. His CSA started small with only about 20 subscribers, but it's quickly growing and he expects to soon reach 200 subscribers, and perhaps eventually 1000. He says at the prices he sells the CSA boxes for, he's competing with Wal-Mart. Actually, he's cheaper than Wal-Mart.

Dinner at the hotel was heavenly. We began with fresh squeezed pineapple juice, followed by a salad featuring heirloom tomatoes (shown here by our host, the owner of the hotel):


Pineapple juice in the U.S. tastes nothing like this, I swear!


The eggs in the salad were easily the best eggs I've ever had.

After our salads, we were served soup. At this point, we had to negotiate with our host about being "vegetariano" (as about half the group doesn't eat meat). We settled on eating the soup made with chicken broth, but with no pieces of chicken in the bowls given to the vegetarianos among us. The soup also contained rice, carrots, and chayote. While we were eating our soup, our host brought out freshly made, warm corn tortillas. These tasted like nothing I've had in the U.S. and they were quite delicious.

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Nice... (4.00 / 3)
It's a green hotel, created from a century-old adobe building.

"The greenest building is the one that's already built." - Carl Elefante

Wish the supposedly-"green" PSU (and TriMet) would take that message to heart, and stop murdering our city's history.

Rant aside...

Looking forward to the pics!  Mmmm, fresh corn tortillas... :)

Is it unusual that you have so many vegetarians on this trip?  Was it like that on the Cuba trip?  Interesting that this type of place wouldn't be prepared for vegetarian visitors?


We had only a few veggies in Cuba (4.00 / 3)
I think when you have a group of highly aware and passionate people you tend to get a lot of vegetarians. Especially if they are coming from a place where it's easy and relatively popular to be veg like California.

In Mexico, factory farms are a really new concept from what I can gather. If they existed here before, there weren't many of them. It's nothing like in the U.S. where you can be sure that every piece of meat sold in a grocery store comes from a factory farm. So I think people in Mexico have had a lot less to be concerned about when it comes to meat and thus it seems there are fewer vegetarians. I know that it's common in the U.S. for farmers to cater to Hispanic populations by selling live chickens that the customer takes home and kills him or herself. And a friend came with his family to Mexico for his Mom's funeral and told me that in order to feed the gathering of people they killed one of his brother's cows and ate it. So I think it's not just that meat is very traditional in dishes here, it's also that many Mexicans are still accustomed to more traditional means of producing meat and thus don't have the same incentive to give it up that we do. They never delude themselves that it doesn't come from an animal, only to have the horrific discovery that an animal died for their food like we do, and at least many of their animals had good lives here.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman


[ Parent ]
Tortillas... (4.00 / 3)
While we were eating our soup, our host brought out freshly made, warm corn tortillas. These tasted like nothing I've had in the U.S. and they were quite delicious.

You've surely had fresh tortillas around your way, right?  Is there a difference between fresh tortillas here and fresh tortillas in Guadalajara and other Mexican cities?  Different kind of corn / techniques / etc?


well at home I get flour tortillas (4.00 / 3)
because those are the ones used where I go for burritos, but also because I expect that most corn in the U.S. is GE so I opt for flour when given a choice. But typically there are the fried corn taco shells and then the soft flour tortillas, but not soft corn tortillas like these.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
Were those white corn tortillas? (4.00 / 3)
If so they should taste different than the corn tortillas we have here in the US. I buy soft corn tortillas from the store for taquitos, and at the mexican restaurants we have a choice of corn or flour tortillas, the corn tortillas being made from yellow corn.

I use corn tortillas for the taquitos because they crisp up and hold their shape when fried. The flour tortillas don't, I use those for soft burritos, soft tacos, wraps, etc.

Now, the tortilla chips I can get in white or yellow corn, but I haven't noticed any white corn soft tortillas. Of course I've never looked for them either.....

In addition to being GE yellow corn, I suspect that most of the commercially produced field corn is probably from a very few cultivars or hybrids in the US so they probably all taste the same. The only way you could get different types of corn is to buy organic and probably you'll get a better selection at an ethnic store or one that caters largely to hispanics. At the Food For Less in Woodburn they have a huge selection of hispanic foods. I can find things there that I just don't see at any of the other stores. They even have pig noses, never seen that in a store before. But Woodburn has a huge hispanic population.

Kind of reminds me of when my younger brother moved to Rhode Island. There were so many italians that he was able to find things like the pickled sweet peppers just like dad used to make in the store. He'd never seen that kind of food in the store out here. Dad got his recipe from his mom, who probably got it from her mom.

Normal people scare me.... But not as much as I scare them.


[ Parent ]
Yes, it was white corn (4.00 / 2)
The yellow corn that comes from America is given to animals and used in food processing here from what I understand. Humans in Mexico don't want to eat it. They want their Mexican white corn and traditional landrace varieties, which come in all colors.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
Tortillas going industrial (4.00 / 2)
Perhaps you got some tortillas made from fresh masa (corn that has been treated with lime and boiled, then ground), which can be a thing of sublime beauty. Ones made with dried masa are far less delicious.

In much of Mexico, though, the old ways of using fresh masa are fading, thanks to industrialization, cronyism and so forth, as Tom Philpott reported a few years ago at Grist.


[ Parent ]
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Notable Diaries
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