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How's the Food in Cuba, You Ask? Pt. 2

by: foodgirl

Thu May 27, 2010 at 20:26:47 PM PDT


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Here's my second installment of a my eating adventures while on this urban agriculture tour in Cuba. I promise to get into some of the farms and gardens, but Jill is doing such a good job of chronicling our farm-visits, that I thought I'd add a bit of a "bonus track" with my foodie meanderings. Today, a rooftop patio meal with extraordinarily funny menu translations. Yes, it's was a bit of a splurge.
foodgirl :: How's the Food in Cuba, You Ask? Pt. 2

Weary from the meals at the Hotel Nacional, I grabbed my friend Ned and we cabbed it over to Weary from the meals at the Hotel Nacional, I grabbed my friend Ned and we cabbed it over to Old Havana. Ned had been suffering both from a bout of Cuba's version of Bali Belly and from the monotony of the hotel buffet. I figured that a splurge meal would do us both a world of good.

Our guide, Sara Daisy, told me that the 1920's Hotel Ambos Mundos was her favorite Old Havana restaurant, and the open rooftop patio certainly had appeal (it's was a few degrees cooler on the roof and in the shade than on the street level where other cafes and restaurants were located). Reputedly Hemingway wrote the first chapter of For Whom the Bell Tolls while staying in room 511, and had his fair share of drinks at this hotel too. (Hemingway is a big tourist industry in Havana; his writing retreat/Cuban residence, Finca La Vigia, is now a museum.)

The rooftop dining room patio at Ambos Mundos overlooks the old city, the Bay of Havana and the old forts that once protected the inlet. As with most other cafes and restaurants, a live band plunks away while you eat and strolls around periodically to hawk its CDs. The menu had a boggling number of options, as they obviously are trying to please the European, Canadian and Latin American tourists. Travel-weary and overly hungry, I melted into a fit a laughter as I started to read the menu translations. Would I order the "Sprouted My Havana" ($18 CUC and which judging from the menu category and the Spanish menu wording looked like a mixed seafood grill) or the "paella to the seat of the chef's style" (a Chef's style seafood paella; $12 CUC)? I didn't like the sound of "roasted head meat slowing in the pan to the old style" ($9.50 CUC), but it was the "Labm (sic) to the rhythm of the mount" ($12.50) that made me wipe the tears from my eyes when I could extract my face from my napkin. We ordered drinks called Tropical Sunrise to start.

My "Sprouted my Havana" was quite tasty and Ned ordered the eggs on rice, in keeping with his tropical dysentery diet. What can I say, the lobster was good, the shrimp on my plate had a refreshing amount of garlic and flavor. It was wasn't a particularly Cuban meal other than the lovely sea air, the live music and the blazing Caribbean sun. But it did the trick. I felt like a million bucks and it really only cost be $40 CUC all in. A ridiculous splurge by Cuban day-to-day standards, but in line with a high-end lunch in our part of the world.

View of Havana Bay from the rootop patio at Hotel Ambos MundosView of the Bahia de la Habana from the rooftop patio of Hotel Ambos Mundos

Lovely tilework at the Hotel Ambos Mundos

Here it is: The "Sprouted My Havana" mixed seafood grill.

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Rooftop shot... (4.00 / 2)
That rooftop shot looks very similar to the view I remember from the old downtown area of Paterson, New Jersey.

I used to have a nice view from on top of one of the buildings we did some work on for a few years in the late 90's.  It was overlooking a wholesale meat and produce market on an ancient, narrow street near the railroad tracks, still packed with people on the right day, with a handful of notable civic and apartment buildings and houses and Alexander Hamilton's silk mills just off in the distance near the Passaic River and the Great Falls, with the Watchung "Mountains" as a backdrop...

Beautiful.  Of course back in Paterson, if you looked the other way from that very same rooftop you saw the hideous and disgraceful scars of "urban renewal", and the massive steaming parking lots and soul-sucking 12-story reinforced concrete human filing cabinets, with the monstrous Bergen and Passaic County sprawl oozing into the distance along the sewers of the Garden State 'Parkway' and I-80 in every direction as far as the eye can see...

....................

but it was the "Labm (sic) to the rhythm of the mount" ($12.50) that made me wipe the tears from my eyes when I could extract my face from my napkin.

I'm having a hard time imagining how that translation even came about!  What is the dish?  Do I even want to know?


special place in my heart for Cuban food (4.00 / 3)
my first date with my late husband was Victors Cafe in NYC.I think it was what tourists think of Cuban food. Years later on a trip to FLA, we were in Key West we ate at a local Cuban joint. We asked locals for a good Cuban restaurant. When we went in to check it out, the menu was in Spanish and no one was speaking English. The food was wonderful. I had some pork dish marinated in sour orange which is something that's hard to replace and not readily available here.

Key West... (4.00 / 2)
I love Key West, it was my first (and last, when I think about it) real long-distance vacation trip.  Well, when I was a (very young) kid I went to Montreal and Toronto with my parents for a long weekend, but I don't remember much of that!  Besides the fact that Montreal is fucking beautiful...

Went to Key West the first time with a few friends at 21, I drove down from NJ (made it to just before Miami in one day, don't ask me how, and only stopped somewhere along 95 that night because we couldn't check into our Key West accommodations until the next afternoon, otherwise I would have done it straight through I think), and then again a few years later.

I was fascinated with the old part of town (free-ranging street chickens, hundreds of them!), and spent much of my time there while my friends were all into the clubs and bars and shit on Duval Street.  Yuck.  Key West's version of the Cancun Marriott, I guess...

I also admired the Hemingway sites, of course.

;)

My one regret though, is that I didn't seek out an authentic Cuban restaurant there.  Pretty sure I had some authentic Cuban food in Union City, NJ (the number two city in the US for Cubans outside of Miami) in my day, at restaurants and at girlfriends' houses... but can't say I had the experience in Key West, unfortunately.  Blown opportunity!

We have a pretty highly regarded Cuban restaurant here in Portland, Pambiche.  Haven't eaten there yet, but will soon.  Probably when my dad comes to visit in a few weeks.  I wonder how authentic it is?

Marinated pork - the orange sounds interesting.  That sounds like maybe a version of al pastor, the pineapple-marinated pork dish in Mexico.


[ Parent ]
I did some work for 2 weeks in Miami Beach (4.00 / 3)
The building we were working in was a block or so away from a Cuban market. They had the best food. I had never drank chilled coconut water, which, to me, is way more refreshing than ice water, especially with the humidity there, I think I was down there in June. I was absolutely not used to that!

No one at the market or in the local restaurants spoke much english. I had taken a year of latin my senior year in highschool, which is incredibly helpful if you need to noodle out any of the romance languages. In a day or two I was starting to do translating for the two guys I was working with for ordering at the market and in the restaurants.

Normal people scare me.... But not as much as I scare them.


[ Parent ]
The Sour Orange Dish (4.00 / 3)
While I didn't have that orange-marinated pork dish, I've used Kalomondin oranges in pork dishes and it's fantastic. At one of the farms Jill and I went to, there were all sorts of varieties of citrus trees. We saw some bitter orange trees, and right away our guide Sara Daisy got very animated and said,oh we use that as a marinade for fish and meat! I bet that some bitter orange goes into fish dishes too as a type of acidic component (like for ceviche) and in cooked dishes too.

As for the translations getting so mixed up, who knows. Maybe an early version of Google Translate?

My last food article will be about the best meal in Cuba that I didn't eat. Regretfully I couldn't do the daytrip out to Las Terrazas / La Mocha hotel / El Romero restaurant with some of the others. That was the day that Jill and I were at Vivero Alamar, THE urban organoponico in Havana.

I'll post my last post on my Foodie Adventures in Cuba on the weekend. Thanks for reading and commenting, all!


[ Parent ]
the reasons I loved the Cuba diaries (yours and Jill's) (4.00 / 3)
are the reasons I love this blog. The combination of history,food,food justice,agriculture and recipes. Do you think any one would be interested in a weekly diary and perhaps 2x a month video diary of the above? I have the perfect person in mind and I am a film maker.

if any one is interested please tell me what you would like to see...


[ Parent ]
bitter orange! (4.00 / 2)
Yes! We saw that a few times in Cuba!!!

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
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