Photobucket


La Vida Locavore
 Subscribe in a reader
Follow La Vida Locavore on Twitter - Read La Vida Locavore on Kindle

Cuba Diaries: Day 11

by: Jill Richardson

Thu May 27, 2010 at 11:28:36 AM PDT


Bookmark and Share
Here's the thirteenth installment on my trip to Cuba to study their urban & suburban agriculture and agroecology. It's also my last diary about Cuba. There will be two more diaries - one on the transition from Cuba to Cancun, and one on re-entering the U.S. Today's diary is about my trip to one of Havana's "agromercados" (farmers' markets).


Don't forget your cigars!

Previous Cuba diaries:
Day 1: Arrival in Havana
Day 2: Pinar del Rio
Day 3: Havana, Cienfuegos, and Villa Clara
Day 4, Part 1: Villa Clara to Sancti Spiritus
Day 4, Part 2: Sancti Spiritus
Day 5: Sancti Spiritus to Havana
Day 6: Ration Books
Day 7: Reflections After One Week in Cuba
Day 8: A Photo Tour of Havana
Day 9, Part 1: Urban Farming in Havana
Day 9, Part 2: Urban Farming in Havana
Day 10: Notable People I Met in Cuba

Bonus Diaries:
Cuban Cars
Cuban Houses
State Propaganda

From My Fellow Traveler, Canadian Journalist Jennifer Cockrall-King:
The Gardens Are Greener Over There... In Cuba
A lesson from Cuba: Farmer-to-Farmer Movement, traditional knowledge sharing
How's the Food in Cuba, You Ask?

Jill Richardson :: Cuba Diaries: Day 11
After 10 days of visiting farms and gardens all over Cuba, our group remarked that we had seen lots of food growing, but very little food selling. How does all of this fantastic produce get into the hands of average Cubans? The next day, we were scheduled to leave for the airport at 9:30am. Our tour guide told us she'd show us a nearby "agromercado" (farmers' market) if we would meet in the lobby at 8am. We'd have just enough time to go and come back before heading off to the airport.

The agromercado we visited was on 19th Street between A and B and it was simply referred to as "19 and B." It was one of the largest and best in Havana, and as a result, it attracted quite a few diplomats and foreigners who lived in Havana. That drove the prices up for Cubans, who thought the prices at this market were very expensive. Some of Cuba's markets (like this one) run entirely on supply and demand, whereas others have a government-imposed price ceiling on the goods sold.

Outside the market, we saw a booth where Cubans could change their "CUCs" (the currency used by foreigners) into "local pesos" to spend at the market. (Cubans who receive money from relatives abroad or tips at restaurants or hotels would have CUCs to exchange.) We also saw the entrance of a shop that sold government rations. And then we entered the market...


Line of people waiting to change money


Government ration store


Market entrance


Check out the size of those green beans!


Garlic paste, stir-fry sauce, bitter orange juice, and lemon juice


Mamey, a tropical fruit

The market also had meat...

Here's a look at the prices...

(All prices are in local pesos. 24 local pesos = 1 CUC. 1 CUC gives you the buying power of about US$1 but the Cuban government takes a cut of every dollar converted to CUCs, and thus, it costs US$1.23 to buy $1 CUC in reality. Therefore, 1 local peso is about US$.05.)


Meat prices: Steak $35/lb, Pallet $25/lb, Fat $15/lb, Leg $25/lb, Loin $25/lb, Rib $20/lb


Mamey $12/ea, Tomatoes $5/lb, White beans $10/lb, Mango $10/lb, Onion $7/lb, Carrot $5/lb


Lettuce $5/lb, Carrots $3/lb, Beets $5/lb, Parsley $3/ea, Celery $3/ea, Chard $3/lb, Cilantro $3/ea, Chives $5/ea, Spinach $3/ea, Culantro $5/ea, Medicinal plants $5/ea, Leek $5/ea, Green beans $5/lb


Cassava $2.50/lb, Taro $3.50/lb, Sweet potato $2/lb


What else do you need? Beer? Condoms? Smokes? Burger buns?

Tags: , , , (All Tags)
Print Friendly View Send As Email

What is the exchange rate there? (4.00 / 4)
Forgive me if you already addressed this in another. I'm just kinda interested in the prices of the produce over there.

"To be honest with you, if someone says they're being honest with you, you should probably be skeptical" My Dad

I just added it to the diary (4.00 / 3)
but you can basically consider $1 local peso as US$.05.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
I should add (4.00 / 3)
that $1 local peso in Cuba spends like $1 to a Cuban. So you can imagine how high these prices seem to them. I mean, could you afford a mango if it was $10/lb here? Those would be a rare treat if that's what they were going for! Or I'd have to get my own mango tree to grow my own.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
market organization (4.00 / 3)
Do you know how 19 y B is organized? Is a person behind the counter a farmer selling his own produce, or an employee of the market? Do farmers sell produce to the market, which then resells it? Is the market a coop?

I think the farmers sell their own stuff nt (4.00 / 3)


"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
nice produce but (4.00 / 3)
I don't see any Richardson-sized cabbage!

Wrong season (4.00 / 3)
I'm the doofus who grew a bunch of cabbage out of season. Fortunately, it worked out for a few of my plants. I planted it right at the tail end of when I could plant it in San Diego (maybe a few weeks too late) which was no doubt too late for Cuba.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
Thanks for a wonderful collection of photographs! (4.00 / 4)
This is the first time I have ever seen a comprehensive collection of photos from a Cuban agro-pecuario market, including all of the prices for the commodities which are sold there.

I admire your skill and dedication in putting all these images up for the interested reader to see.

For the past ten years I've been the principal contributor to an online news service on Cuba which you and other readers might find of interest:

CubaNews Yahoo news group
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/...

Thank you very much,

Walter Lippmann
Los Angeles, California


Cuban markets (4.00 / 4)
It's interesting that when they finally let you go to a food market, it was one designed for foreigners, diplomats, and Cubans with access to foreign currency. I've been to Cuba twice (1978 and 2004) and each time, I had to find on my own the markets where rationed food was sold. They were depressing places, inadequately stocked (just because you're entitled to a pound of chicken each month doesn't mean you'll find it), and much of what was there was rotten. It sounds like things probably haven't changed much, since you weren't shown any markets where the proletariat shop.

I've often wondered if the food problem in Cuba is the result of the American embargo and general poverty, or of the government's desire to keep the people under tight control, and dependent. I really don't know.

Great posts.

David Gumpert  


Thanks (4.00 / 3)
You know, it wasn't that they weren't "letting" us see the markets. Our trip was somewhat of an experiment, a "first" trip for Global Exchange in the new era of Obama and looser rules for travel to Cuba. They used to do more trips like this before Bush tightened the rules. Since this was a first, they were working with a Cuban group who asked to plan the trip and Global Exchange said yes. Then when the trip actually happened, the Global Exchange people weren't happy with how it went and they said that they do a better job and next time they will plan the trip themselves - WITH visits to markets and things like that. So it could just be that.

However, I've lived in China and I'm FULLY aware of how authoritarian governments can keep foreigners away from things they don't want them to see. That DID cross my mind while I was in Cuba. As for the market, though, we went to this one for one very specific reason: it was the right day and the right time for us before our flight and it was near the hotel.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman


[ Parent ]
Political Activism Blogs - BlogCatalog Blog Directory
Menu

Make a New Account

Username:

Password:



Forget your username or password?


Notable Diaries
- The 2007 Ag Census
- Cuba Diaries
- Mexico Diaries
- Bolivia Diaries
- Philippines Diaries
- My Visit to Growing Power
- My Trip to a Hog Confinement
- Why We Grow So Much Corn and Soy
- How the Chicken Gets to Your Plate

Search




Advanced Search


Blog Roll
Blogs
- Beginning Farmers
- Chews Wise
- City Farmer News
- Civil Eats
- Cooking Up a Story
- Cook For Good
- DailyKos
- Eating Liberally
- Epicurean Ideal
- The Ethicurean
- F is For French Fry
- Farm Aid Blog
- Food Politics
- Food Sleuth Blog
- Foodgirl.ca
- Foodperson.com
- Ghost Town Farm
- Goods from the Woods
- The Green Fork
- Gristmill
- GroundTruth
- Irresistable Fleet of Bicycles
- John Bunting's Dairy Journal
- Liberal Oasis
- Livable Future Blog
- Marler Blog
- My Left Wing
- Not In My Food
- Obama Foodorama
- Organic on the Green
- Rural Enterprise Center
- Take a Bite Out of Climate Change
- Treehugger
- U.S. Food Policy
- Yale Sustainable Food Project

Reference
- Recipe For America
- Eat Well Guide
- Local Harvest
- Sustainable Table
- Farm Bill Primer
- California School Garden Network

Organizations
- The Center for Food Safety
- Center for Science in the Public Interest
- Community Food Security Coalition
- The Cornucopia Institute
- Farm Aid
- Farm and Ranch Freedom Alliance
- Food and Water Watch
-
National Family Farm Coalition
- Organic Consumers Association
- Rodale Institute
- Slow Food USA
- Sustainable Agriculture Coalition
- Union of Concerned Scientists

Magazines
- Acres USA
- Edible Communities
- Farmers' Markets Today
- Mother Earth News
- Organic Gardening

Book Recommendations
- Animal, Vegetable, Miracle
- Appetite for Profit
- Closing the Food Gap
- Diet for a Dead Planet
- Diet for a Small Planet
- Food Politics
- Grub
- Holistic Management
- Hope's Edge
- In Defense of Food
- Mad Cow USA
- Mad Sheep
- The Omnivore's Dilemma
- Organic, Inc.
- Recipe for America
- Safe Food
- Seeds of Deception
- Teaming With Microbes
- What To Eat

User Blogs
- Beyond Green
- Bifurcated Carrot
- Born-A-Green
- Cats and Cows
- The Food Groove
- H2Ome: Smart Water Savings
- The Locavore
- Loving Spoonful
- Nourish the Spirit
- Open Air Market Network
- Orange County Progressive
- Peak Soil
- Pink Slip Nation
- Progressive Electorate
- Trees and Flowers and Birds
- Urbana's Market at the Square


Active Users
Currently 0 user(s) logged on.

Powered by: SoapBlox