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An Ann Cooper School Lunch Makeover

by: Jill Richardson

Thu Feb 18, 2010 at 23:33:59 PM PST


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Whole Foods held a competition, promising the winner a school lunch makeover by famed "Renegade Lunch Lady" Ann Cooper. As luck would have it, the winner was Albert Einstein Academies, here in San Diego. And the store putting on the Ann Cooper events and working with the school was the very same Whole Foods where I used to work! The school lunch makeover with Chef Ann is a two-day event and today was day one.

Part of today's activities focused on bringing together local farmers with the San Diego school lunch staff and talking about how they could work together to bring local produce into the schools. Chef Ann kicked off the meeting with an absolutely brilliant set of props:

What you have here is a pretty standard American school lunch. Chicken nuggets (which serve as the grain and the meat), French fries (the vegetable), and some fruit cocktail (the fruit... and the high fructose corn syrup). Plus a carton of chocolate milk. Pathetic. We make fun of Reagan for making ketchup a vegetable, but calling French fries a vegetable ain't much better.

Now add a piece of whole fruit (maybe even fruit from a local farm):

Okay, the meal still pretty much sucks. It's junk food plus an apple. Yay. A little more fiber, a little less sugar. It's still not a healthy meal. Ann said that step one is replacing the chicken nuggets and the fries:

Ta-da... healthy lunch! Chicken breast, broccoli, brown rice and beans, with an apple. With white milk, not chocolate milk. Now that's a healthy lunch. And if the apple and broccoli are local, that's even better.

Ann deals with seasonality and local food by writing all of her menus with a specific entree plus generic "fresh fruit" and "salad bar." Then she works with local farmers and her distributors to figure out what's local, what's seasonal, what's affordable, etc. And, because supplying large quantities of a single item is often difficult for small or even mid-size local farms, she offers a variety of seasonal veggies in a salad bar. That way she only needs to get a little bit of 24 different items instead of a whole lot of one item.

Chef Ann explained what she did in her current school district in Boulder, CO and it's really quite amazing. When she showed up they had tons of freezer space but not enough refrigerator space. That means they could easily store and serve frozen meals, but not fresh fruits or vegetables. Switching over to healthier, less processed foods required getting not just refrigerator space but also knives and cutting boards. And the staff training so everyone knows what to do with the knives and cutting boards. She gave her staff 12 full days of training this year. As you can see, schools don't just need more money so they can buy better foods. They need the labor, training, and equipment to go with it.

More about the day's other events below...

Jill Richardson :: An Ann Cooper School Lunch Makeover
The day started with a press conference. I showed up late and took a few pictures during the last few minutes of Chef Ann's speech. The national media was present, and Whole Foods was ready for them:


Enormous check (in size... only a few grand in monetary value) from Whole Foods to the school lunch reform effort


Big sign about healthy lunch


For all of their eco-friendliness, Whole Foods sure likes bottled water

After the press conference I chatted with folks from Slow Food, Whole Foods, and Albert Einstein Academies. Then, Whole Foods served lunch. It was intended as an example of a healthy lunch that Chef Ann might serve in a school cafeteria. You can see many of Chef Ann's recipes on her website, The Lunch Box.


Chicken Fajitas with Corn or Flour Tortillas


Southwestern Beans and Brown Rice


Mexican Slaw


Fruit in yogurt


Granola for the yogurt and salsa for the fajitas

As you can see here, serving kid-friendly healthy food is not rocket science. Kudos to Chef Ann for doing what she's doing, and kudos to Whole Foods for paying for it. It's really sad to me that we've gotten to this point where we need to bring a national expert in to know how to feed kids decent food, but that's where we are. And by that I mean that's where we are as a nation, not just in San Diego. I really have to give San Diego a lot of credit, actually. The San Diego Unified School District's school lunch director is a fantastic guy who has all of the right goals and lots of motivation to make them happen. He's doing the absolute best job possible with the limited resources he's given and he's made some improvements in school food even prior to Chef Ann's visit.

Tomorrow's events take place at the school itself. I look very forward to seeing the school and meeting the kids and their parents.  

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Cooper (4.00 / 1)
Do you think you will be able to find out, for publication, how the (presumably increased) costs of Chef Ann's program are funded in Boulder?

Does anyone know - this would be a great question to ask someone at today's events - does a district pay the same for white milk as for flavored milk? If so, shouldn't flavored milk rightfully cost more because it has added ingredients and more processing? (Unless OrganicGeorge is correct and flavored milk really is reprocessed past-date milk. Perhaps you also could ask about this - is flavored milk essentially fresh milk, or not?)


standard lunch (4.00 / 1)
Only partially joking - we can tell the standard lunch isn't healthy because it is all shades of the same color in the photo. The healthier the meal gets, the more colorful it gets!

correction (4.00 / 2)
healthy => healthful

[ Parent ]
Eat yer' browns! (4.00 / 2)
"How can you have any grays if you don't eat yer' browns?!"

Heh...

"The essence of the independent mind lies not in what it thinks, but in how it thinks." - Christopher Hitchens


[ Parent ]
Truth in labeling... (4.00 / 2)
Current school menus should look more like this -

Monday - Brown & Gray

Tuesday - Choice of Gray or Orange-ish

Wednesday - Brown & Black

Thursday - Orange-ish & Off-white

Friday - Blue & Apple

Because Friday's the healthy day, see...

"The essence of the independent mind lies not in what it thinks, but in how it thinks." - Christopher Hitchens


[ Parent ]
double or triple (4.00 / 1)
recs for that.

[ Parent ]
lunch for the crowd (4.00 / 1)
Did a Whole Foods kitchen prepare the lunch for the crowd?

yep (4.00 / 2)
but the crowd wasn't THAT big. Media, people from the school, people from Slow Food, and not too much else.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
costs (4.00 / 1)
Perhaps not in the short run, but can labor costs and other costs for improved programs be minimized by using central or zone kitchens, which prepare the food and distribute it to schools?

tray costs (4.00 / 1)
We have talked about the waste and wasted money associated with disposable trays. An argument against reusable trays is that schools have neither staff nor facilities to clean them. Again, could this cost be minimized by having trays cleaned and distributed from central facilities?

[ Parent ]
trayless lunches are a good idea (4.00 / 2)
trays allow people to pile on more food than they can eat. No tray = less food waste.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
tray options? (4.00 / 2)
That's a direction that didn't occur to me, but it seems worth thinking about.

Alternatives? One plate of real food, and a hand-held drink carton? A pitcher of milk at the table?


[ Parent ]
they do that already nt (4.00 / 2)


"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
Chef Ann Cooper (4.00 / 3)
is amazing.  I am so excited to say she's agreed to stay over in Orange County when she's here in March and do a talk for Slow Food OC!  Right now I'm scrambling to find a venue and a cosponsor, it's so scary with such short notice!

But I am so excited about it!

Any advice? :)


makeovers (4.00 / 2)
School lunch makeovers - grist for the next wave of reality TV programs?

Probably not... (4.00 / 2)
I doubt Coke would sponsor those...

"The essence of the independent mind lies not in what it thinks, but in how it thinks." - Christopher Hitchens

[ Parent ]
I hate to be a nit picker (4.00 / 4)
and I agree with the points of your article, but this gives me pause -

but calling French fries a vegetable ain't much better

Pardon me, but French Fries are a dish made from a vegetable. So I would think that French Fries would be considered a vegetable, unless we're no longer considering potatoes a vegetable? OK, I know, potatoes are a tuber, perhaps tubers are no longer acceptable? Or is it just the way they're cooked that's no longer acceptable?

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....


well, they are every bit as much (4.00 / 2)
a vegetable as ketchup, unless you want to be more correct and call ketchup a fruit. Yes potatoes are a vegetable, but the intent of including veggies in lunch is not to include veggies absolutely soaked in oil. If they were served as roasted potatoes that would be fine. The other problem is the lack of variety. They require a vegetable or fruit on the plate (under current standards the two are interchangeable) but about half the time the veg is potatoes, often in the form of fries or tater tots. It's healthy to eat potatoes SOME of the time, but not half the time to the exclusion of all other vegetables.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
I agree with you on the frequency of eating potatoes (4.00 / 1)
it was just the premise that potatoes aren't vegetables because they are deep fried as french fries that struck me as odd, especially coming from a vegetarian. Kind of like me saying that hamburger patties weren't meat because they were fried or grilled.

It's not the potato you object to, if I understand your reply, it's the way it's cooked, and the frequency it's served.

As to the frequency, I wouldn't be surprised if that wasn't due to the price of potatoes vs other vegetables. Remember, the school lunch program is funded by the public, the stingiest task master anyone would have the pleasure of working for. I say this as someone who's boyfriend went to work on the LA County fire department when the public didn't want to pay the firefighters enough to live on, didn't want them to have a second job to pay the bills (else they couldn't be on call 24/7/365) and didn't want them to be able to vote or work on any campaign (they're public employees and so there is a conflict of interest). 'You work for us and therefore we own you' seemed to be the order of the day back then and it kind of still is.

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....


[ Parent ]
USDA dietary guidelines (0.00 / 0)
One thing I hate about the USDA dietary guidelines - the heavy reliance on carbohydrate from grain is amplified by the fact that "vegetable" includes potato and "fruit" includes banana. Potatoes are the cheapest vegetable in the store and banana is the cheapest fruit in the store, and they both are concentrated carbohydrate bombs that lack much additional nutrition compared to other fruit and vegetables.

I wonder how often school lunch lines use potato and banana as fruit and vegetable.


[ Parent ]
potatoes as vegetable (4.00 / 1)

There most definitely is an objection to potatoes classified as vegetable, and that is the starch content of potatoes. Taken together, the various form of potatoes served in schools rank only behind pizza as kids' favorite food. But we know that refined carbohydrates and starches--as in pizza crust and potatoes--are a primary culprit in the obesity epidemic. Thus, the new nutritional standards developed for the USDA by the Institute of Medicine--and embraced by Ann Cooper and Michelle Obama--urge fewer potatoes and more green and orange vegetables. Less starch, more fiber and micro-nutrients, is the order of the day.

Ed Bruske aka The Slow Cook

[ Parent ]
I agree with you (4.00 / 1)
that's right in line with my position in my comment bellow. One of the problems with obesity in this country is the too high intake of calories. People nowadays just don't need the calories they needed in the past. We don't need them to fuel our bodies for physical activity, we don't need them to keep warm.

The types of vegetables you mention are much lower in calories than starchy vegetables, breads, pastas, grains.

One of the things I have to keep an eye on in my own diet is how much fuel my body needs to keep going vs what I'm eating adjusted for activity. I'm what, in the livestock world, would be called an 'easy keeper', meaning I need less than most people to maintain weight. I have to be careful what I eat and how much, especially in the winter when I'm less active and comfort foods high in calories are more attractive. I usually gain some weight during the dead of winter, which I don't mind as I use it up in the spring/summer when my activity level increase by a lot.

People need to keep all of that in mind. When they don't, we get lots of obesity.

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....


[ Parent ]
Nutritionally, potatoes are a starch (4.00 / 2)
and should be considered alongside bread, rice and other grains. French fries have no skin, which also means there isn't any fiber to speak of. French fries are deep fired, which means they're soaking in oil. Starch and oil, one of the three modern food groups which are sickening humanity.

So technically they're a vegetable, but when creating a balanced diet, they fall way behind other vegetables.


[ Parent ]
No technically about it (4.00 / 2)
they are a vegetable. It's the way they're cooked that's the problem. There are people in many parts of the world that depend on and eat potatoes on a regualr basis. They are a staple.

Just not cooked in that particular way.

Actually, come to think of it, starchy plants are quite often a staple. Most roots and tubers that make the base of many peoples' diets are starchy aren't they?

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....


[ Parent ]
Bangladesh (4.00 / 1)
Rice is reported to provide 75% of calories for the people of Bangladesh.

My understanding is, we're trying to do better than Bangladesh.


[ Parent ]
Starch is starch (4.00 / 1)
The Western world uses wheat, the Eastern rice, South American Incas developed the potato. Then there's manioc, tapioca and other roots like you suggest. Most civilizations use a starchy food as their staple. But it ain't everything. Western, Eastern, and potato eaters mostly take off the fiberous skin from their starchy staples (isn't that weird?).

In the first photo, there's the protein in the chicken nuggets, and there's starch in the breading that covers them. Then there's more starch in the french fries, and there's sugars in the fruit cup. There's not enough fiber and both the starch and the sugars wind up as serum glucose. Excess glucose is likely converted into fat. What's needed in that lunch is maybe some leafy greens, or maybe ice-cold carrot sticks, or maybe some celery sticks with peanut butter. What the heck, how about giving the kids cheese-stuffed breaded and deep fried jalapeno peppers! :-) There's three food groups in each handy bite.


[ Parent ]
I agree with you (4.00 / 1)
one thing that keeps striking me is that we keep trying to eat in this society like we are still living in the 1800s. Look at what people used to eat back then. Even in the early 1900s. Lots of starches, lots of fat, huge ammounts of calories. Lots of thin people too.

Ya know why? Work. Lots, and lots, and lots, and lots of back breaking physical labor. All of those calories got burned off. In fact, people needed to eat all of those calories, starches, and fats, if they didn't they'd starve to death. I've worked some jobs where I ate burgers and fries or other such foods twice a day at rates that if I ate like that right now, I'd weigh over 300#, and I still lost weight. Why? I worked the calories off.

Nowadays, very few people work like that, yet we still try to feed ourselves and our kids like they are doing field work 16 hours/day.

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....


[ Parent ]
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