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Strange Bedfellows? What's Going on in Organic Dairy?

by: Jill Richardson

Fri Jan 29, 2010 at 12:44:17 PM PST


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Organic industry watchdog, The Cornucopia Institute, put out a press release entitled "Organic Family Dairies Being Crushed by Rogue Factory Farms." In a time that is already tough for dairies, the last thing organic family farms need is unfair competition by factory farms that break the spirit of the organic law, if not the letter of it. The press release says that the organic family dairies are asking the President and OMB (the Office of Management and Budget) to remove loopholes from the law that allow factory farms to produce "organic" dairy products. This is not a new issue at all. It's one that's gone on for years, and the government is aware of it:

The pending rewrite of the organic livestock standards, with an emphasis on assuring compliance with provisions that require that ruminants, like dairy cows, be grazed, is currently under review at OMB, where the administration is being heavily lobbied by industrial farming interests to water down the rules.

It sounds to me like explosive growth in the organic market attracted these large factory farms (with up to 7200 cows), but now as organic dairy demand is flat, the glut of milk produced by these enormous milk factories is harming family dairies who allow their cows to graze on pasture. And, of course, consumers are not being served well by this either, as milk is healthier when the cows are able to graze on pasture.

Here's the strange part of it: The press release notes that the respected organic brand Strauss Dairy is partnering with Aurora (an "organic" dairy that even the Bush administration went after for violations) to do away with the pasture requirements for organic cattle that the OMB is looking at.

This is not TOO surprising to me, as in the past the government proposed organic dairy standards requiring the cows spend a certain amount of time grazing on pasture, but the standards were so flawed that they would have disqualified many legit organic dairies. Could that still be the case? (I'll add that I buy my milk from Strauss and would be most upset if they were actually lobbying for legalization of factory farms in the organic dairy market.)

In response, Albert Strauss said:

I fully support strict pasture regulations to maintain the integrity of the organic standards and ensure that factory farms are not allowed in the organic industry. My concern is that the proposed rule takes a one-size-fits-all approach which ignores regional diversity, dictating farm management without regard to geographic and climate differences in this vast country.

See more from Strauss plus the full Cornucopia Institute press release below.

Jill Richardson :: Strange Bedfellows? What's Going on in Organic Dairy?
More from Albert Strauss:

"I fully support strict pasture regulations to maintain the integrity of the organic standards and ensure that factory farms are not allowed in the organic industry. My concern is that the proposed rule takes a one-size-fits-all approach which ignores regional diversity, dictating farm management without regard to geographic and climate differences in this vast country. For example, in parts of the country where the ground freezes, accommodations in the rule would not force farmers to keep cows on pasture during winter months. Yet, farmers in Northern California would be required to have cows on pasture in winter, even when rains are heavy and the ground is saturated, because the temperature is above freezing.

Our cows graze in the pasture from Late February to November, a yearly average of 240 days on pasture, far exceeding the 120 day minimum proposed in the pasture rule. They are only taken off the pasture when the wet weather makes it unsafe for the animals and the land. If we put them on the land during rainy weather on wet soils it would compromise their health, cause erosion on the land, and adversely affect on the water quality of Tomales Bay.

...In January of 2010, I traveled to Washington DC to explain the issues I have with the proposed rule and to suggest more enforceable, sustainable alternatives. An Aurora Organic representative was also present at this meeting and raised similar concerns over the proposed rule. Over the last 15 years, I have attended hundreds of meetings with organic farmers and processors to craft organic legislation and regulations. Straus Family Creamery will continue to respect and work with all members of our organic community to maintain the integrity of organic standards and protect consumers."

Cornucopia press release:

January 25, 2010

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

Organic Family Dairies Being Crushed by Rogue Factory Farms

Farmers Appeal to OMB, President Obama for Justice

WASHINGTON, DC:  Family farmers from around the country, who produce organic milk, are petitioning president Obama, and the White House's Office of Management and Budget (OMB), for the swift adoption of new strict rulemaking that will rein in the abuses of a handful of factory farms they claim are violating both the spirit and letter of the federal organic law.

The pending rewrite of the organic livestock standards, with an emphasis on assuring compliance with provisions that require that ruminants, like dairy cows, be grazed, is currently under review at OMB, where the administration is being heavily lobbied by industrial farming interests to water down the rules.

To meet the explosive growth in the organic industry, over the last five years, a number of large industrial dairies, milking as many as 7200 cows, have exploited the stellar reputation that organic dairy products have earned in the eyes of consumers who are looking for safer and more nutritious food for their families.

"With the flattening of demand for organic food, these giant dairies have flooded the market with cheap milk that is now crushing the family farmers who have built this industry," said Mark Kastel, Senior Farm Policy Analyst at The Cornucopia Institute.  "These CAFOs (concentrated animal feeding operations) are anathema to organic consumers investing in a more environmentally sensitive approach to food production and humane animal husbandry.  Ironically, one of the reasons they are willing to pay extra for organic milk is they think that the farmers who produce it are being fairly treated."

The current surplus of organic milk, caused by factory farms, has forced prices down for family farmers.  Sadly, there have been reports around the country of a number of suicides of both conventional and organic dairy producers.  Some organic farmers are now facing foreclosure, a stark contrast to the economic promise of organics over the past two decades of growth.

Organic farmers are particularly resentful of two corporate players that heavily lobbied the USDA during both the Bush and Obama administrations, attempting to weaken regulatory language that requires dairy cows to be managed in a way that promotes their natural instinctive behaviors, including grazing on open pastures rather than spending most of their lives confined in barns and dirt feedlots.

The largest villain, in the eyes of dairy farmers, is Aurora Dairy.  The $100 million corporation owns five "factory farms," managing thousands of cows each, in arid regions of Texas and Colorado.  Owning its own manufacturing plant, Aurora packages and ships milk for sale as storebrand products at Wal-Mart and a number of leading supermarket chains.  Aurora's factory farm milk reaches every corner of this country, undercutting ethical farmers and their marketing partners.

"Although the president of Aurora Dairy, Mark Retzloff, has heavily contributed to the Democratic Party, President Obama, and Tom Vilsack, former Iowa governor who is now USDA Secretary, we trust that the current administration will focus on the suspect practices of his company rather than their past financial and political support," Kastel stated.

In what has been described as the largest scandal in the history of the organic industry, in 2007, the USDA found that Aurora had "willfully" violated 14 tenets of the federal organic law including confining their animals, instead of grazing, and bringing illegal conventional cows into their factory farm operations.

The Bush administration let Aurora off without a cent in fines, instead placing the company on a one-year probation.  Since then, 19 class-action lawsuits by consumers, charging Aurora with consumer fraud, has been working its way through the federal court system.

More disturbing to many organic consumers and farmers alike, especially in California, is the revelation that a previously respected and popular organic brand, Straus Dairy, has actively partnered with Aurora in attempting to scuttle enforcement of the pasture requirements for organic cattle under evaluation by the OMB.

"Albert Straus has repeatedly stated in public, and now is petitioning the Obama administration, claiming that it's impossible in his environment, north of San Francisco, to comply with the new proposed federal requirements for pasturing his cattle," said certified organic dairy producer John Mattos, who farms about 10 miles further north of the Straus operation in Sonoma County.  Mattos is a member-owner of Organic Valley, a cooperative of family farmers that competes with Straus.

Mattos purposely chose to milk Jerseys, and Jersey crossbreeds, instead of the more productive and more common Holsteins, because they thrive when grazing in more marginal areas.  "I graze 5 1/2 months a year, my cows are outside year round, I have no problems with the proposed standards," Mattos affirmed.

There were no cows out on pasture at the Straus dairy when it was observed by Kastel when he visited the Straus operation, and other area dairy farms, in 2008.

"It is grossly unfair that just a handful of dairies, for selfish reasons, are trying to derail strict enforcement," said Bob Camozzi, an organic farmer who also ships his milk to Clover Stornetta, another local North Coast California dairy brand.

"Our farmers are committed to maximizing pasture consumption by our cattle due to the economic benefits, the profoundly positive impact it has on the health of the animals and the superior nutrients that are contained in pasture-based organic milk," Camozzi explained.

Meeting with and lobbying the OMB in Washington, along with Aurora, is not the first time Albert Straus has angered other members of the organic dairy community by speaking against strict enforcement of organic dairy regulations.

"Albert has portrayed his brand as coming from his small family farm.  But as his brand succeeded and grew in the marketplace, he apparently added too many cows to be grazed on the available land he owns and then he further grew his operation by buying from other area farmers," said Tony Azevedo, a San Joaquin Valley dairyman and president of the Western Organic Dairy Producers Alliance.  "It's a shame that he chooses not to pasture on a regular basis."

"It would be a national scandal, as some of us face losing our farms due to the industrial dairy scofflaws, if the Obama administration sides with the 'bad actors' in our industry," affirmed Bruce Drinkman, an organic dairy farmer from Glenwood City, Wisconsin, who milks 55 cows.  "We are in dire financial straits because of the same kind of unethical competition from factory farms that put so many of our conventional neighbors out of business.  We need the President and the USDA on our side!"

###

MORE:

An action alert, to facilitate public input to the White House, can be accessed at: http://www.cornucopia.org/2010...

On January 8, Albert Straus, along with a representative of Aurora Dairy, met with OMB staff, along with USDA personnel, in Washington (confirmation of this meeting is noted on the OMB's webpage at:  http://www.whitehouse.gov/omb/...

In addition to Straus and Aurora, OMB staff met with a handful of other representatives from the organic industry, including the National Organic Coalition, the Organic Trade Association and lobbyists representing the WhiteWave division of Dean Foods (Horizon).

For a better understanding of the issue you can read the detailed backgrounder, prepared by The Cornucopia Institute, that was submitted during our meeting with the OMB Friday, January 22, 2010:  http://www.cornucopia.org/USDA...

Over 90% of all namebrand organic dairy products are produced with high integrity.  A brand scorecard, intended to empower consumers and wholesale buyers, can be viewed at: http://www.cornucopia.org/2008...

The Cornucopia Institute, a Wisconsin-based nonprofit farm policy research group, is dedicated to the fight for economic justice for the family-scale farming community.  Their Organic Integrity Project acts as a corporate and governmental watchdog assuring that no compromises to the credibility of organic farming methods and the food it produces are made in the pursuit of profit.  Their web page can be viewed at http://www.cornucopia.org

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I'm siding with Albert Straus (4.00 / 3)
Though it's weird he's side-by-side with Aurora. I've lived in Northern California for 25 years and I've seen his place.

The rainy season here begins in November and ends in May. There's almost zero rain the rest of the year -- although Straus's summertime weather includes lots of cool fog which keep his pastures green until the rains come. My area doesn't get summer fog and the natural pastures are dry and brown by July. Strauss has natural pasture and it would be destroyed if he grazed his animals during the rainy season. Our natural grasses sprout when the first rains come and have very limited growth until things warm up in February.

Straus's pastures would be destroyed by winter grazing because the just-sprouted grass would be eaten before its springtime growth phase began. By early summer, there would be no pasture left.

Another thing that would destroy his pastures is the saturated soil between about mid December and mid April. We get a lot of rain here. Cattle are very bad for wet ground -- they compress the soil into mud. Not much can grow in a cattle-trampled mud flat unless it is plowed.

So what if Straus did just that -- plowed the pasture, planted more seed in early summer (like they do in the Sacramento and San Juaquin Valleys) and irrigated it? There's no water available for irrigation where Straus is in West Marin and Sonoma Counties.

Straus does provide enough open space for his cows in the winter according to either CCOC or Oregon Tilth (I forget which) and feeds his cows hay during the winter -- no different than organic producers in areas of heavy snow or frozen ground.

When I have a choice, I buy Straus in preference to Clover organic (which isn't bad) because it tastes better. I simply won't buy that ultra-pasteurized crap from Organic Valley. In some ways I think USDA Organic sucks and it feels like a watered-down version of CCOC.  


Oops! (4.00 / 3)
I meant CCOF, not CCOC.

[ Parent ]
i was wondering that nt (4.00 / 2)


"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
CCOF (4.00 / 1)
I wonder if CCOF is the certifier for that crazy pancake batter that comes from California in an aerosol can.

[ Parent ]
WTF? (4.00 / 2)
I had never heard of that stuff. Thanks to google I found it! Five bucks a can. I wonder if organic nitrous oxide is used as the propellant so mommy and daddy can have a good laugh after the batter is gone.

[ Parent ]
Dairy and Meat animals are winter (4.00 / 3)
supplemented here. Either with hay/grass grown by the rancher or from a neighboring farm.

Thanks for your info, including the taste part :) I'll have to try it when I get there.


[ Parent ]
Make that a double thanks! (4.00 / 3)
Just checked their site and they have cream top milk!!!

[ Parent ]
detailed backgrounder (4.00 / 1)
Cornucopia's "detailed backgrounder" doesn't address any of your observations. Their position is that other producers, who don't face those strictures, shouldn't have to accomodate Straus.

Don't know for sure, but that seems like accomodation that could be worked out to everybody's satisfaction. Not in a one-rule-for-everybody fashion, of course - regional variations would need to be accepted as part of a reasonable solution.

Very curious is Cornucopia's emotional attachment to the 120-day standard as a defense against Straus, when Straus says he pastures for 240 days. I don't understand that.

OK, now to read Michael's blog.


[ Parent ]
Defending Straus (4.00 / 4)
Hi -- Albert Straus is my brother, and I have a lot to say about these recent allegations by Cornucopia. I've posted my personal views at www.MichaelStraus.org (I can repost here, if that's appropriate).  Thanks, Michael

Just read your post... (4.00 / 2)
From your blog.

I'd be interested in knowing more about this -

Like the time that Cornucopia threatened my sister Vivien, who was running marketing at the time, telling her that if she didn't fill out the Cornucopia organic dairy questionnaire completely, that the absence of answers would count as points against us?

Thanks in advance.  And sure, go ahead and post here if you'd like...

Coming soon to a Philadelphia near you!


[ Parent ]
please do post your views here (4.00 / 2)
I've just read them on COMFOOD. And, as I said in the post, I buy Strauss milk.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
SuperFresh (4.00 / 2)
SuperFresh, one of my neighborhood conventional chain stores, recently introduced store brand organic milk. I wonder if it's Aurora.

Re: the truth about Straus dairy (4.00 / 3)

Enough is enough with the allegations against Albert Straus and Straus Family Creamery, which are baseless at best, and slanderous at worst.

By way of background: Albert Straus is my older brother, and I have known, intimately, the struggles, evolution and innovations of our family's dairy. In 1994, when Albert completed the arduous and expensive transition to organic and opened Straus Family Creamery (SFC), my sister and I dropped our careers and came home to help save our family farm. At that time, organic and organic dairy was still so new that we spent much of our time answering questions like "What's organic?" It was still so early in the evolution of the market that grocery stores would barely give us the time of day. I ran the marketing for the creamery for about 5 years (along with working on the production line, and selling at the farmers markets), and over the subsequent years worked on various projects with Albert via my company, Straus Communications.  However, SFC is no longer a client, nor do I have any financial stake in the business. My comments here are entirely my own, and don't represent Albert, Straus Family Creamery, or any of our other clients, past or present.

First of all, as Albert's younger brother, I'm happy to offer that he is, in fact, stubborn. And, having worked on communications with him over many years, when it comes to articulating the nuances of his rationale, Albert is about as far from a slick and calculating spokesperson as they come.

I've worked professionally in this sector for 15+ years, and I passionately insist that Albert is one of the most ethical, honest, innovative and pioneering voices in the organic dairy and sustainable agriculture communities. You will be hard pressed to find anyone who has done and does more than Albert to fight for high standards, family farms and to build the marketplace for organic, local, sustainable, family farmed, ethical products and practices.

Is Albert perfect?  Far from it. But he is fiercely independent, and I think that his independence comes, in part, from years of struggle watching 90% of all the dairies in our county go out of business, innovating while the neighboring farmers laugh (at best), getting screwed by the cooperative that previously purchased his milk, and putting everything at risk while much of the organic community sleeps or is afraid to take a stand. Albert's agricultural innovations started long before the organic transition, and continue to this day. Other dairy processors, way larger, more established and with much deeper pockets, waited to see if our crazy organic and micro-processing idea would succeed or fail before throwing their hat in the organic ring.

His innovations, at the dairy or with the Creamery, continue, daily. A couple of years ago Albert discovered that the certified organic feed he was purchasing was contaminated with GMOs. He was outraged, and spoke repeatedly about how he had to take immediate and thorough action, because it was the right thing to do. At the time, he was the only dairy, and one of the very few organic producers, to take a vocal, outspoken and firm stand on GMO contamination of organics, while others in the organic industry were afraid to even acknowledge there was a problem, out of fear of alienating their customers. But that didn't deter Albert even for a moment, investing a lot of time and money into establishing his own GMO testing regimen. Today, the industry is finally catching up via the Non-GMO Project - see TIME magazine: http://3bl.me/d2kpka. And just last week, he introduced possibly the most innovative milk packaging in the country.

Albert's vision has always been to help other small-scale, local farms stay in business and have the opportunity to thrive amidst the perpetual crisis of conventional milk prices. He's helped a number of dairies go organic, even ones who then jumped ship to supply his competitors. He helped pioneer the use of homeopathy for large animals, training his vets how to work with organic cows. By expanding the network of organic dairies supplying Straus Family Creamery, and by creating value-added products, he's avoided the route of growing his herd size and maintaining a size that's appropriate for the land.

So, when Cornucopia starts making allegations about the Straus dairy being a CAFO - in grazing practices, milking management or manure handling - quite frankly, they don't have any idea of what they're talking about (I was going to be more blunt and use more farmstead vernacular, but I think you get the idea).

For example, Kastel says: "Strauss's (sic) dairy might be the only organic operation in the United States to process its manure in an energy producing digester.  A prerequisite to running these systems is a confinement operation where the cattle and manure are concentrated." Kastel's knowledge of environmental regulations pertaining to small-scale dairy farmers could apparently fit inside a thimble.

If Kastel knew anything about the issue, he'd know that 30+ years ago, new environmental regulations (which my family strongly supported) required that all dairy farms in our region upgrade their manure handling procedures. In response, Albert has developed one of the region's most innovative handling systems which includes composting, dramatic fresh water conservation, and one of the first methane power generation programs on small-scale dairies. While other local small-scale dairies were trying to develop methane systems that were outrageously expensive and not replicable, Albert found another solution, forged alliances between groundbreaking NGOs like www.SusCon.org, PG&E and the CED that have opened the doors for other dairies in the state (of all sizes) to power their farms and simultaneously reduce GHG.

When Albert introduced 3x/day milking about 20+ years ago, he was the first in the state to do it. And it was a huge innovation, demonstrating that a small dairy could increase milk production and profitability without increasing herd size. And the cows were healthier, including a dramatic decrease in mastitis. For Kastel to presume anything about the economics, margins or pricing structure of my brother's dairy and brand is simply outrageous. Kastel should focus on real issues impacting pricing, like the outrageous regulations which tax organic dairy processors to subsidize conventional dairy farms.

Now, when it comes to the complex issue of organic 'access to pasture' standards, Albert has an opinion, and a strong one at that. Kastel is free to disagree, but I guarantee that Albert is not going to be quiet just because others (even a lot of others) don't concur. And if it turns out that the regulatory agencies disagree with him, I'm sure he'll adjust his farming practices if necessary. But in our world of authentic ideas and innovation, since when has the organic community been about falling in line with the majority?

Cornucopia and the Organic Consumers Association - in postings, articles and press release - attempt to vilify Albert for not agreeing with their stance. Kastel wants you to believe that he and Cornucopia are honest, unbiased brokers of information and truth, and that Albert's stance is  a "betrayal of the values this industry was founded on."

Betrayal of values?  Like the time that Cornucopia threatened my sister Vivien, who was running marketing at the time, telling her that if she didn't fill out the Cornucopia organic dairy questionnaire completely, that the absence of answers would count as points against us? Values, like railroad folks who don't agree with you by making false claims and disparaging allegations?

I'm sorry, but for all the good work that Cornucopia could be doing, they're undermining their credibility with such accusations. They're totally off-base, and before anyone jumps on their bandwagon, I'd ask that you get all the facts, and not take Cornucopia's word at face value.

// Michael Straus
www.MichaelStraus.org
Michael@StrausCom.com


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