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Tales from a D.C. School Kitchen, Part 5: Food Service Turns a "Green" School into an Enviro Hog

by: euclidarms

Sat Jan 23, 2010 at 03:10:45 AM PST


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By Ed Bruske
aka The Slow Cook

I recently spent a week in the kitchen at H.D. Cooke Elementary School here in the District of Columbia observing how food is prepared. This is the fifth in a six-part series of posts about what I saw.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4

euclidarms :: Tales from a D.C. School Kitchen, Part 5: Food Service Turns a "Green" School into an Enviro Hog
One unfortunate aspect of the sewer system design here in the District of Columbia is that in large swaths of the city it connects with the same pipes that carry storm runoff. Thus, when we get a heavy rain in the nation's capitol, raw sewage flows underground past the capital dome and right into the Anacostia River.

Needless to say, the Anacostia, which flows into the Potomac not far from the Jefferson Memorial, does not see a lot of bathers.

When architects began planning renovations to the 100-year-old H.D. Cooke Elementary School building a few years ago, one of the things they focused on was a way to prevent rain water from flooding the sewer line. Huge holes were dug on the school grounds and into them were placed holding tanks the size of tractor trailers. Now when it rains, the water that flows off the school's roof is diverted into those tanks where oil and grease and other pollutants can be filtered out, the water released slowly into the storm drains.

The rain water capture system was just one of many "green" features in the $35 million school rehab. Prior to the renovations, windows were so decrepit they were falling into the classrooms. The school got all new insulated windows that also filter ultra-violet rays. Special care was taken during demolition to recycle old drywall and other building materials. To save water in the new school, the boys bathrooms were fitted with waterless urinals; new toilets have a water-saving liquid or solid flush option. To economize on electricity, lights were equipped with motion sensors, windows were designed to make maximum use of daylight. To hold down heating and cooling costs, and to maintain healthy, comfortable air quality inside the building, special monitors and fans and ventilation systems were built.

When our daughter enrolled at the school this past fall, we simply marveled at the facilties: the brand new gymnasium and cafeteria, the gem of a library, the computer rooms lined with sleek new monitors and keyboards, classrooms filled with new furniture. It was a far cry from the ancient schoolhouse a few blocks away where our daughter had been attending charter school. Little did we suspect that behind all the improvements, the food service operation at H.D. Cooke would be turning this "green" school into an enviro hog.

Also included in the renovations was a new school kitchen. Walk-in freezer and refrigerator, convection ovens, steamers, holding cabinet, stainless pot sinks and work benches--it's all there. But if you're a chef with a crazy fascination with commercial kitchen equipment like me, you also notice right off that there is no dishwasher in the H.D. Cooke kitchen. And that's because there are no dishes to wash: other than the tables the kids eat off, everything about the cafeteria operation is disposable.

One wag has said that the most important tool in school kitchens these days is a box cutter. During the week I was there as an observer, there were days when the boxes that frozen and canned foods arrived in grew into a pile near the door to the loading dock. Pizza, chicken nuggets, hamburger patties, tater tots--from factories around the country, it all comes sealed in plastic bags inside cardboard boxes. The empty boxes made it easy for me to read and copy ingredient labels into my little reporter's notepad. But what happens to all those boxes after that?

According to D.C. Councilmember Mary Cheh (D-Ward 3), author of  "Healthy Schools" legislation now pending before the Council, about two-thirds of D.C. Public Schools and most charter schools do not recycle. Even at DCPS schools that do recycle, waste from food service is neither recycled nor composted.

Practices in the cafeteria reflect the drive for convenience and lower labor costs. Just as food preparation is engineered to be quick and easy, using lots of pre-cooked frozen meal items, food service has been designed to require the least amount of human intervention. Disposable plastic rules. Kids bus the tables themselves. The only thing that comes back to the kitchen is the uneaten food from the steam table, and that is simply flushed down a commercial-size garbage disposal.

When students enter the food line, or "Kid's Stop Cafe," they pick up a non-recyclable Styrofoam tray that doubles as a plate. At breakfast they choose from Pop Tarts and Goldfish "Giant Grahams" wrapped in foil. Individual servings of cereal come in plastic tubs with plastic seals. Fruit juice is distributed in 4-ounce plastic containers with foil seals. Eating utensils are displayed in individual plastic packaging: a plastic spoon that's also a fork--known affectionately as a "spork"--a plastic drinking straw and a paper napkin.

Drink cups are unnecessary. Besides fruit juice, the only other beverage in the cafeteria is milk. All of the students take milk with breakfast and lunch and drink it directly out of the disposable carton it comes in.

Students sit at tables in the large dining hall eating off their Styrofoam trays, drinking their milk. As they finish, they've been trained to walk their trays over to one of the large trash cans at the other side of the hall and drop it in. Everything from the meal service--foil packaging, plastic tubs and cups, milk cartons, spoons, napkins, Styrofoam trays--soon joins the cardboard boxes and plastic bags and industrial-size cans from the kitchen in a dumpster to be hauled off to a landfill.

Do the math and the amount of trash becomes scary. H.D. Cooke serves about 150 students for breakfast and another 280 for lunch. That's 430 Styrofoam trays every day, five days a week, nine months a year. Styrofoam, the brand name for petroleum-based polystyrene, is light as a feather yet practically impervious to the usual forces of decomposition--no one can be sure how many hundreds of years it may to break down in the environment. And this is just one school. There are some 40,000 kids enrolled in the D.C. Public Schools, and another 20,000 in public charter schools.

The environmentally unfriendly nature of school food service poses a number of obvious contradictions. Signs around the school, hand-drawn by students, extol the importance of being kind to the planet. My daughter, who attends fourth grade at H.D. Cooke, is a member of the school's "green team." Every week, she says, the "green team" members patrol the school, handing out $1 citations to people who leave their lights on or forget to turn off the computers. But in the lunch room, she and all the other kids are filling trash cans twice a day with mounds of non-recycled refuse.

Under the "Healthy Schools" bill, all DCPS schools, including food service, would be required to recycle paper, bottles, cans and cardboard. but only "when funds become available." Schools would also be required to compost food waste, and the bill calls for a pilot composting program that would involve schools as well as the city's departments of public works and the environment. But again, provisions would only apply "once funds were appropriated."

As for the Styrofoam and all the plastic entailed in school meals, "Healthy Schools" would require that schools switch to "sustainable products" within four years. At what cost remains to be seen.

Tomorrow: Conclusions

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Ah, combined sewers... (4.00 / 2)
Providing environmental remediation jobs in New Jersey for over 100 years!  Heh, I would know.  Well, not for all of those years, although sometimes it feels like it...

Anyways.

But if you're a chef with a crazy fascination with commercial kitchen equipment like me, you also notice right off that there is no dishwasher in the H.D. Cooke kitchen. And that's because there are no dishes to wash: other than the tables the kids eat off, everything about the cafeteria operation is disposable.

Oh, no.  Here I'm getting flashbacks of "eco-design" disposable plastic water bottles, and "biodegradable" plastic corn-based disposable takeout drink cups which lack places where they can actually be "disposed of" properly.

Eating utensils are displayed in individual plastic packaging: a plastic spoon that's also a fork--known affectionately as a "spork"--a plastic drinking straw and a paper napkin.

Ah, "sporks".  Some things never change, huh?

As for the cardboard boxes at DC schools, why are they not recycled?  This makes absolutely no sense to me, since I'm not aware of any major cities in America lacking cardboard recycling programs?  Aren't they even breaking the law by not recycling them?

As for the Styrofoam and all the plastic entailed in school meals, "Healthy Schools" would require that schools switch to "sustainable products" within four years. At what cost remains to be seen.

And "what definition", too.  Never underestimate the power of industry to define their ridiculously wasteful products as "sustainable".

Coming soon to a Philadelphia near you!


this series rocks.. (4.00 / 2)
and one that deserves a bump in readership.One suggestion to Jill and or you Jay. Could u physically put all the related diaries in one place so I could have one link and tiny URL?

[ Parent ]
I'll add a tag... (4.00 / 1)
Would that help?

Coming soon to a Philadelphia near you!

[ Parent ]
Okay, tags added... (4.00 / 1)
See Tales from a D.C. School Kitchen.

Does that work, or did you have something else in mind?

Coming soon to a Philadelphia near you!


[ Parent ]
perfect..I'm posting to Twitter.. (4.00 / 1)


[ Parent ]
I agree (4.00 / 2)
this is a fantastic series.

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....

[ Parent ]
Live or die? (4.00 / 1)
I can read it now - Ed's final essay will ask the question, "Are our kids, and we, better off with this system or without it? Should we improve the system, or just kill it off?"

[ Parent ]
Reportage (4.00 / 1)
I don't read the Washington Post regularly, but I'll bet Jay Mathews, their education guy, has never done reporting like this.

[ Parent ]
Ahhh, (4.00 / 3)
The environmentally unfriendly nature of school food service poses a number of obvious contradictions. Signs around the school, hand-drawn by students, extol the importance of being kind to the planet. My daughter, who attends fourth grade at H.D. Cooke, is a member of the school's "green team." Every week, she says, the "green team" members patrol the school, handing out $1 citations to people who leave their lights on or forget to turn off the computers. But in the lunch room, she and all the other kids are filling trash cans twice a day with mounds of non-recycled refuse.

The left hand knoweth not what the right hand is 'a doin'....

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....


Kind of shocking to read this (4.00 / 3)
We have mandatory recycling where I live. That either means California or the County of Lake, but I think it's statewide. We get three cans -- trash (the smallest) recycling and green waste. We don't recycle our food waste, but the City of San Francisco does.

I wonder where DC puts all their trash?

And those styrofoam containers! What a bunch of knuckle-draggers -- it even puts off-flavors in the food. Having real dishes and washing them would not only be the smart thing to do from an environmental and culinary standpoint, it would provide at least one more 'means of livelihood' for someone without the means or ability to have a college degree.


start somewhere (4.00 / 1)
at the very least, reusable trays seems a practical modification of the system. Lots of agonized screaming from people who sell "trates", I suppose.

"trate" = combination tray-plate?

Like so much we do, an idea has been taken to a ludicrous extreme.


[ Parent ]
Heck, the older kids could do the washing (4.00 / 2)
as a work fee. Gain experience in the work world and learn to earn their own money.

Some of my first "real" jobs were through my HS. I worked in the child care center and also did off site TA work at a grade school where we were working with special programs. When I was teaching college classes, some of my most dedicated students were the ones in the work program.


[ Parent ]
we have three too here in SD (4.00 / 2)
trash, recycling, and yard waste. All the same size although with all of our composting we don't throw out too much anymore.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
Recycling cardboard (4.00 / 1)
A comprehensive school-level recycling program would require additional labor and expense, but just recycling cardboard from food service would seem to require no additional labor and expense at the scool level, and would be extremely simple, for schools whose dumpster bay can accomodate more than one dumpster. Just dedicate one dumpster exclusively to cardboard! The only added complexity is to get DPW or other hauler to get that dumpster to the proper materials handling facility.

Does this sound reasonable? Seems better to make an easy but meaningful start than do nothing.


Or the schools can plant gardens (4.00 / 2)
and some of the "waste" can go into a massive compost bin. Or even if they don't have a garden, they could do a massive compost bin and sell the compost to home gardeners etc. (think school fund raising op)

Heck, if they compost, they could also start a worm biz {grin}

Do you know what they serve the drinks in in the school? Any cans/bottles they could turn in for cash? Wed night is recycle night in my 'hood and folks are out collecting when I'm out doing my late night dog walk (aka 3AM!) I also see them out on non-recycle nights just checking and collecting.

And seriously, they could assign kids/classes on a rotating sched to handle some of the labor issues with recycling. Especially if the school is going "green". Teaching some hands on reality is always a good thing and kids love it, no matter how "dirty"  ;)


[ Parent ]
recycling v. not recycling (4.00 / 1)
Ed, how do schools that recycle differ from schools that don't? (Why do some schools recycle and others not?) Is the difference easily summarized?

oh. my. god. (4.00 / 2)
that's just a nightmare. All that waste and no recycling or composting, let alone reusing.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

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