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Tales from the Larder: Olive, the Empress of Oil (part 1)

by: Asinus Asinum Fricat

Fri Nov 20, 2009 at 13:36:59 PM PST


Homer called it "liquid gold." Olive oil has been more than mere food to us Mediterraneans: it's our way of life. The olive tree, symbol of abundance, glory and peace, gave its leafy branches to crown the victorious in both friendly games and bloody war. Olive crowns and olive branches, ancient emblems of benediction and purifiation, were ritually offered to deities and powerful figures but it is only in recent times that modern scientific research has proven over and over what the peasant wisdom knew a long time ago: its wonderful taste and health properties.

One tablespoon of olive oil contains 120 calories and 14 grams of fat, but the fat is mostly monounsaturated and has a beneficial effect on blood cholesterol levels. It is no wonder that Mediterranean countries where olive oil is consumed extensively such as Greece, France, Italy and Spain, there is a low incidence of cardiovascular diseases. It also protects the body's digestive tract.

Cross-posted on the Evil Orange.

Asinus Asinum Fricat :: Tales from the Larder: Olive, the Empress of Oil (part 1)
In this diary I explain the merits of olive oil as a healthy choice, some history, what to buy and some useful links. Next week, in part two, the recipes will all feature olive oil in all of its glory. If you have a request for a particular recipe utilizing olive oil, post it in the comments. As old Caesar once said, alea jacta est!

Why is olive oil so good? It contains monounsaturated fat, a healthier type of fat that can lower your risk of heart disease by reducing the total and low-density lipoprotein (LDL, or "bad") cholesterol levels in your blood. In sheer contrast, saturated and trans fats - such as butter, animal fats, tropical oils and partially hydrogenated oils - increase your risk of heart disease by increasing your total and LDL cholesterol levels.

According to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), consuming about 2 tablespoons (23 grams) of olive oil a day may reduce your risk of heart disease. You can get the most benefit by substituting olive oil for saturated fats rather than just adding more olive oil to your diet.

Now that California produces some exceptional olive oils, the US consumption is at an all time high, but I'd wage that some of you are still confused about the differences between regular or pure olive oil on the one hand, and on the other, olive oil that is classified as either virgin, extra virgin, or cold pressed. Here's a quick rundown, compliments of the folks from All About Olive Oil:

Regular or Pure Olive Oil
This olive oil is of lower quality and usually the least expensive. Regular or pure olive oil has undergone a chemical process whereby it has been refined and filtered to neutralize both undesirable strong tastes and acid content.
Virgin Olive Oil
Virgin means the olive oil was produced without any chemical additives, so it contains no refined oil. It has an acidity that's less than 2%, so it tastes better. Basically, virgin olive oil is the result of olive press with no (or very little) further manipulation or processing, hence the term "virgin".
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
It is very high quality olive oil since it comes from the first press only. This allows it to acquire perfect flavour, aroma, and balanced acidity. This olive oil is less processed than Virgin olive oil and is very delicate in flavour. It's perfect for dipping bread, salad dressings, marinades, and for dressing rough food.
Cold Pressed Olive Oil
Cold pressed olive oil can be considered premium olive oil. It is produced following a special process that fully preserves the delicate flavour. Cold pressed means that this oil is only the result of the first press where the olive paste is gently warmed to reach room temperature to avoid loosing taste. Pressing is also done in winter or in general in colder environments to fully retain the flavour. Conversely, in the production process of non cold pressed olive oil, the olive paste is often pressed the second time using hot water and steam to extract the last drop, the heat during the second pressing took away the delicate flavours.

To summarize the info above, cold pressed olive oil is produced by pressing the olive paste. It is a very slow process in which olive oil is extracted from olives at room temperature. The term cold-pressing refers to the fact that the oil is extracted without heating the paste, furthering insuring the purity of the oil. In ancient times, the olives were mashed into a paste with a simple mortar and pestle. This principle was expanded upon until the stone mortars were large enough to require either people or pack animals to operate them. In the modern process, the milled olives travel from the mill into vats in which slowly turning blades mash the olives into a homogenized paste. Unfortunately, cold pressed olive oil is an unregulated label description and one has to really look hard on the bottles label to find the "cold pressing" tag. But that's the very best kind, and if you can afford it, the benefits will be obvious.

Before you set off to purchase your bottle of olive oil, just remember that not all oils are created equal. First, give a wide berth to Pomace oil which is the name given to the ground flesh and pits after pressing. Pomace oil is made by refining what's left of olive oil pressings. Although fit for consumption, it has no real taste and it's used primarily for deep frying. There are some fairly poor bottled olive oils on the market and some that are downright shameful, the products of various oil scams. Scams? You betcha. Last year Italian police raided several farms and arrested some 23 people. Another incursion six weeks later netted a further 40 arrests. Buyer beware indeed.

Police had been watching the plants for two years, and the suspects are accused of adding chlorophyll to sunflower and soya bean oil, and selling it as extra virgin olive oil in Italy and abroad. TV news footage showed police scientists demonstrating the process and the cheap oil turning a darker, greenish colour, like that of the traditional extra virgin olive oil.

While you read this diary, grab a piece of bread and dip it into a saucer filled with olive oil. Sprinkle a little sea salt and some cracked black pepper. Italians and southern French are keen on this snack, it stops the hunger, it's healthy and it's affordable.

Olive culture has ancient roots. Fossilized remains of the olive tree's ancestor were found near Livorno, in Italy, dating from twenty million years ago, although actual cultivation probably did not occur in that area until the fifth century B.C. Olives were first  cultivated in the Eastern part of the Mediterranean, in the region known as the "fertile crescent," and moved westwards over the millennia.

Beginning in 5000 B.C. And until 1400 B.C., olive cultivation spread from Crete to Syria, Palestine, and Israel; commercial networking and application of new knowledge then brought it to Southern Turkey, Cyprus, and Egypt. Until 1500 B.C., Greece-particularly Mycenae-was the area most heavily cultivated. with the expansion of the Greek colonies, olive culture reached Southern Italy and Northern Africa in the eighth century B.C., then spread into Southern France. Olive trees were planted in the entire Mediterranean basin under Roman rule. According to the historian Pliny, Italy had "excellent olive oil at reasonable prices" by the first century A.C, "the best in the Mediterranean," he maintained.

Apart from the delightful taste of olive oil, it is laced with vitamin E, a most powerful antioxidant. Additionally olive oil is thought to have a protective effect against maladies in which free radicals activity is implicated, among them cancer, arthritis and cardiovascular disease. My great grandmother insisted that it also worked against premature senility (she lived to a very old age). Other research gleaned from the European Union website has shown that the bile-promoting effect of olive oil is both more intense and longer lasting than any other fats. Look at it this way: I have read recently on the FDA site that on digestibility rating of 100, olive oil scored full marks. Sunflower oil scored 83, groundnut oil did 81 while corn oil lagged behind at 36. Because of the olive oil efficiency in being absorbed helps and promotes intestinal peristalsis it is a friend of the liverish, the dyspeptic and the ulcer sufferers.
                                            Health Nutrition Benefits of Olives/ Olive Oil:

The mono-saturated fats present in olives/olive oil, when combined with the antioxidant protection offered by vitamin E, lower the risk of damage and inflammation.

Olive/olive oil contains active phytonutrient compounds, including polyphenols and flavonoids, which have been found to have significant anti-inflammatory properties.

The vitamin E present in olives/olive oil has been known to offer cellular protection against free radicals present in the body.
Olives/olive oil prevents the oxidation of cholesterol in the body and thus, helps reduce the risk of having heart attack or stroke.

Since they help the body in neutralizing free radicals, the nutrients in olives/olive oil also lead to prevention of colon cancer.

Olives/olive oil are said to be effective in reducing the frequency and/or intensity of hot flashes in women, who are going through menopause.

Regular consumption of olive oil has been associated with decrease in systolic (maximum) as well as diastolic (minimum) blood pressure.

Those who consume olives/olive oil are at a lesser risk of developing diabetes at later stages in life.

Good quality olive/olive oil contains a natural chemical that acts like a painkiller.

Olive/olive oil has been known to be beneficial for people suffering from the following ailments:

                                                                 Asthma
                                                            Osteoarthritis
                                                       Rheumatoid Arthritis
                                                          Arteriosclerosis  
                                                         Stomach Problems
                                                           Constipation
                                                               Diabetes

Olive oil is also known to combat breast cancer, take a look at this website. If you'd like to know more about olive oil nutrients, try this site.

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I got a severe crew-cut yesterday and the first thing I did (4.00 / 7)
when I got home was to douse it with olive oil. My scalp feels like heaven today.

Sic Transit Gloria Locavore!



my daughter spent the summer In India (4.00 / 5)
she lived with a Hindi family. She decided to cook pesto for them (coriander not basil) and she went looking for olive oil. She was shopping in the local market, and about to give up finding olive oil, when she wandered over to the HAIR section. And found her olive oil. Indians use it in their hair not for cooking....

[ Parent ]
Wonderful diary (4.00 / 6)
I live for olive oil. The only thing I use corn or vegetable oils for anymore is deep frying....

I hear ya on the olive oil and bread snack. My problem is that I'll do something like that with bread that's just come out of the oven and then I wind up eating the whole loaf. :-0

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....


What's your take on Spanish (4.00 / 6)
olive oil?

My favorite all-purpose extra-virgin olive oil, believe it or not, is Goya.  It has a nice, fruity flavor and it's not horrendously expensive.  And it has no pretensions of being Italian, heh.

The most remarkable thing about my mother is that for thirty years she served the family nothing but leftovers. The original meal has never been found. -- Calvin Trillin


Trader Joes has a really good Spanish extra virgin (4.00 / 5)
olive oil that I love. I use it for everything..


[ Parent ]
I like it too. But I have to say that the one I buy most frequently is (4.00 / 5)
from my neck of the woods, made in Nice, with tiny black olives. And I have a friend in import/exports which lets me purchase a good truffle oil for a fraction of the price.

Sic Transit Gloria Locavore!



[ Parent ]
Digestibility (4.00 / 3)
Would you please see if you can find the information about digestibility again, and post the link? I haven't been able to find such a list at FDA or elsewhere.

Thanks.


California olive oils (4.00 / 5)
I've been buying California olive oils lately (not local, but from "only" 1,500 miles away instead of from overseas). I like Napa Valley Naturals and McEvoy Ranch.  

Yeah... (4.00 / 5)
Same here - I use California olive oil for cooking, and my more expensive (but local, from less than 50 miles outside of Portland!) Oregon olive oil for dressings and bread and whatnot...

My coop used to carry bulk California olive oil, but now the bulk comes from Argentina and the California stuff is only in bottles.  But it's still there!

"Intelligent discontent is the mainspring of civilization." - Eugene V. Debs


[ Parent ]
Jay, there was something (4.00 / 4)
in the NYT about wine & carbon footprints, and the upshot was that French wines (arriving by ship, iirc) were actually greener than California wines (arriving in NYC by truck).  Wish I'd bookmarked it; don't feel like searching the archives right now.

Probably the same thing applies to olive oil.  Besides, the East Coast isn't known for great wines...and there is no olive industry here.  ;-)

The most remarkable thing about my mother is that for thirty years she served the family nothing but leftovers. The original meal has never been found. -- Calvin Trillin


[ Parent ]
Well, yeah... (4.00 / 2)
They arrive by ship from Europe, which is one of the most efficient transportation methods possible.

But Oregon olive oil doesn't arrive in Oregon by ship or cross-country truck...

;)

Now, if we actually rebuilt our freight rails in America again?  That would be a different story, too...

And what do you mean?!  I'm pretty sure New York has a bunch of great wines, if I recall correctly?

:)

Here's an interesting question -

I wonder how far east the line would be drawn re: "greener transportation" as compared to Europe, as far as olive oil and wine trucked from California towards the east coast?  Definitely Iowa, probably Chicago... maybe even Cleveland or Pittsburgh?

"Intelligent discontent is the mainspring of civilization." - Eugene V. Debs


[ Parent ]
Some of that Oregon olive oil does come from out of state (4.00 / 3)
One of the olive orchards in Oregon, I think there are 2?, said that because their trees aren't up to full production, they use California olive oil that they blend with the oil produced from their own orchard. They say that once their orchard is up to full production, the California oils will be eliminated.

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....

[ Parent ]
Yeah... (4.00 / 1)
That one was Victory Estates, down in Keizer...

"Intelligent discontent is the mainspring of civilization." - Eugene V. Debs

[ Parent ]
Oh, and another question! (4.00 / 1)
re: Argentinian olive oil... I wonder what the numbers would look like on ship transport from Argentina to NY as compared to France or Italy to NY?

I have to stop asking myself questions now, or I'll be up researching this all night now!

:)

"Intelligent discontent is the mainspring of civilization." - Eugene V. Debs


[ Parent ]
More Cali olive oil (4.00 / 2)
I found this out just tonight.

I and one of my sons both went to a college in Pasadena, California, whose urban campus features olive trees. They're  planted in various locations. The main walk bisecting the east end of campus (known as Olive Walk) is lined with olive trees that have always created an awesome mess when the fruit drops.

When my son was there 15-16 years ago, some students inquired about the possibility of using the olives somehow, but Buildings and Grounds advised against that because of the biocides sprayed on them. (If the olives weren't to be used, why spray the trees? But that's for another discussion.)

These undergraduates are tenacious to a fault, however, and persistence has been rewarded.

The story is here, follow the links:

Olive Harvest Festival

In 2005, Kristen Kozak ('09) tried to preserve some olives by dry curing them, that is, using salt to remove the bitter taste. Unfortunately, the olives were infested by flies. The experiment was repeated with better olives in 2006 by Kristen and four other students  (Alex Roper, Robbie Xiao, Dan Rowlands, and Cathy Douglass, all also Class of '09) and met with mixed results. What worked very well, however, was pressing them for oil. These students picked both green and black olives and pressed them with cheesecloth to separate the pulp from the oil and juice, and put the liquids in a jar to separate. The oil rose to the top and was then skimmed off. The students ate the oil plain and on bread.

Also in  2006, undergraduates Dvin Adalian and Ricky Jones did their own olive oil experiment. Using a remedial set of tools and a set of instructions they devised themselves, they managed to purify 550 mL of oil. (For a more detailed account  of the process, click here.)  They distributed the oil throughout their residence (Ruddock House) and the biology division, to Caltech president and first lady Jean-Lou Chameau and Carol Carmichael, and to their friends and families. The verdict? "It was delicious."

The first official olive harvest was in 2007.

The First Annual Olive Harvest Festival met with great success. Over 350 volunteers managed to pick 1460 pounds of olives on harvest day. The Santa Barbara Olive Company pressed and bottled the harvest into about 30 gallons of Virgin Olive Oil. Due to overwhelming demand, the bottles were sold via lottery through the Caltech Bookstore.

These people are crazy - in a good way.



[ Parent ]
That is too cool! (4.00 / 2)
My dad's cousin Julia lives with her husband Paul in Freemont, CA. Dad told me that there are a lot of olive trees planted in the parking strips down there and Paul picks the olives and cures them. The neighbors don't have to deal with the mess when the fruit drops, and Paul gets lots and lots of olives to cure just for his time to pick them.

I have a little Arbiquina olive tree here. I used to have two, but the neighbor kid mowed one down a year ago when he was doing the lawn. I dream of one day having olives to cure.....

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....


[ Parent ]
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