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The Chicks in the Grinder

by: Jill Richardson

Wed Sep 09, 2009 at 09:27:02 AM PDT


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If you haven't seen the video of baby male chicks getting ground up yet, well... I can't say I recommend it. But, if you must, you can watch it at the link. The reason these birds are discarded is because they are male and thus unable to lay eggs. The question many ask when they see this is: Why don't they raise the birds for meat?

The sad truth is: money. In The Omnivore's Dilemma, Michael Pollan refers to the Cornish Cross (a breed of chicken) as the fastest converter of corn to breast meat. Similarly, one can call the White Leghorn the fastest converter of corn to eggs. One breed for meat, one breed for eggs, and the chicken industry doesn't have use for any other breeds of chickens.

The chicken industry is so "efficient" in fact, that the slaughter process is mostly mechanized, as all the birds are roughly the same shape and size. The machines kill the birds at the rate of 180+ per minute and a human stands guard to kill any birds that the machine misses (with imperfect accuracy, tragically). Given the standardization of the entire process of producing meat birds and maximizing breast meat, clearly the baby male White Leghorns go to the grinder is a calculation of profitability. Is it cheaper to use them for meat or to kill them? Because of their rate of growth or "feed efficiency" (how quickly they turn food into meat) or amount of breast meat or inability to fit with the mechanized nature of the chicken slaughter process or whatever, they aren't profitable. So they go to the grinder, which is apparently the cheapest way to kill them (or perhaps some combination of the cheapest and most "humane" way to kill them).

The problem isn't merely this practice of grinding up baby chicks, but the entire system. And yet, with Americans' great appetite for cheap meat and ability to ignore where it comes from, how it was raised, and how it affects the people who produce it or the environment, that's the system we've created.

Jill Richardson :: The Chicks in the Grinder
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All true (4.00 / 4)
it takes two months for a cornish cross or a Ross (the other broiler type I'm aware of) bird to make it to slaughter weight, and 4-6 months for a bird like a white leghorn to get to eating size. I came across an article written by a fellow who had raised white leghorn roosters specifically for slaughter. He raised the birds free range on pasture, not in chicken tractors. He said the birds came out very well, but I think they'd be better suited to the specialty market as are pheasants, which are raised commercially for slaughter as well.

The problem is that, even if the meat of these roosters is superior in flavor than commercially raised broilers, as this fellow said, when people see chicken, and you're charging pheasant prices, I think you'd be in an uphill battle to gain a market for them. I think it could probably be done, it'd just be difficult. I have a couple of white roosters I'll need to butcher out here. When I get around to it I'll do a comparison to a store bought broiler. I'm thinking they'll be like a meatier pheasant when dressed out.

I know when I was raising turkeys I worked with Rio Grande wild turkeys. They're the biggest of the types. When you dress them out they don't look anything like what you're used to seeing in the store at Thanksgiving and Christmas. They look an awfull lot like a giant pheasant. Taste like a giant pheasant too....

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....


When do white leghorn hens begin to lay eggs? (4.00 / 1)
RE: Cornish Cross - are males and females both commercial, or are male chicks killed?

Wild pheasant is not like factory chicken, for sure. Not as extreme as wild duck, which is all dark meat, even the breast - wild pheasant fly less than wild duck. I'm not famiiar with commercial pheasant, but in concept I wouldn't pay more for factory pheasant than for factory chicken if birds are selected by the same criterion, fed the same factory food, and grown in the same factory conditions. For me the marketing spin wouldn't be competing chicken against pheasant, but competing free range against factory. Leave pheasant out of the discussion unless free range leghorn roosters actually are competitive with comparably priced pheasant, and I have no clue whether that is true or not.

I haven't hunted pheasant for several decades now, and I don't remember if hen meat differs much from roosters. We didn't pay much attention to such details then - we cleaned it, Mom cooked it, we ate it and were happy to have it.


[ Parent ]
Just as wild pheasant isn't like factory chicken (4.00 / 3)
free range chicken or pastured, even the commercial broiler breeds/lines aren't like factory chicken when those birds are raised in a pastured or free range environment. And different breeds of chicken are different from each other, at least that's been my experience. I like silky chicken, but the purple bones and blue meat take a bit of getting used to. I think the Japanese call them 'black chickens' alluding to the darker skin on a silky.

Commercial pheasant are raised in open air flight pens which have netting over the top to prevent escapes. They often have forage and cover for the birds as they are a bit on the jumpy side. They're not as bad as hungarian partiges, which are totally loopy as far as being flighty, but they're not as calm as a chicken. They're raised like I raised my pheasant and partrige, only on a larger scale.

Our white leghorns started laying at about 5 months I think. Ours are a year and a half old so I forget exactly how long it took them. As I remember, they started laying almost full sized eggs right away, where as our other breeds - wyandots, rhode island red, aracauna and americaunas - started laying at around 6 months and the eggs right now are what are called pullet eggs, being around half the size of a regular egg.

When I was breeding game birds I fed cracked corn and layer pellets that I bought at the feed store, but the birds were kept 2-8 in a 10'X20' flight pen, so they were foraging as well and the stocking rate was low enough that the grass in the pens would get waist to shoulder high in the summer.

Judging from the conformation of our leghorn rooster, I'd think he'd have about as much breast meat as the pheasant, although the pheasant would have more dark meat than the rooster. I would think that raising the leghorn roos would be about as much, cost and time wise, as raising pheasant. Those birds, at least the ones I raised, took as long to raise as the regular, non broiler, chickens. When I was raising the pheasants I worked with ringneck - both normal and melanistic, golden, red golden, yellow golden and Lady Amherst's pheasant for eating, those being the commonly kept species/crosses at the time. I had a freind who lived close by who was a taxedermist. He would come over and kill/skin the birds. He'd take the pelts to mount and I'd take the meat, I'd give him some from time to time, but I'd get most of it.

I've never tried wild pheasant or turkey, although I have had wild dove, so I can't really compare. I was never interested in hunting them when I could raise them here. I never noticed a difference between the hens and the cocks as far as flavor. They did have a richer flavor than the chicken, but not that much. There was a bigger difference between the silky chickens and the other chicken breeds though. As I remember, the meat on those went from blue to not quite as white as a regular chicken when cooked, but much, much lighter, and the bones went from purple to deep blue when cooked. It's been a while since I've eaten silky chicken. Pheasant breeders generally keep them around to incubate eggs of rare and hard to breed species. Silky's are the best mommas in the known universe for that. The few I ate were extras and I had heard that people ate them, so I decided to give 'em a try.

Anyway, I was just thinking, regarding the marketing issues around the leghorn roos, that even though it would be as expensive to raise them as it would pheasant, and I think that the flavor would be comperable to pheasant, I think perhaps that the general public would be hesitant to pay pheasant prices for a chicken. Although, perhaps not. Geeze, now I want to get some leghorn cockerels and raise them up to do a taste test....

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....


[ Parent ]
The cornish crosses (4.00 / 1)
are meat birds, so all of the chickens are raised to meat age and slaughtered.

It's a hybrid cross, so all the chicks from that cross are for slaughter, none for breeding. There are special lines of Cornish and Rock parent stock that are crossed on each other. The hybrids grow so quickly that they frequently cannot survive as adults.

As it was, he did a deal with a blancmange, and the blancmange ate his wife.


[ Parent ]
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