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Mark Bittman's Kitchen Express

by: Jill Richardson

Wed Aug 12, 2009 at 15:11:07 PM PDT


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Saying that Mark Bittman's cookbook is fantastic feels about as silly as saying that Hawaii is a wonderful vacation spot. Of course it is. Duh. And yet - the obviousness of it does not diminish how truly GREAT of a cookbook it actually is. It's not for nothing that he's a bestseller and at the top of the cookbook and recipe world. Bittman actually lives in the real world, the same world that the rest of us live and cook in, unlike the authors of so many other cookbooks.

I find most cookbooks very frustrating to use because as you flip through them, it's hard to find a recipe that you've got all of the ingredients for on hand. Page after page, you think "Oh that looks good" and then realize "Wait... I've got everything except for the bell peppers. I can't make that unless I go to the store." That's fine if you're planning a meal in advance, but what about when you want to just cook something NOW? And how far can you deviate from the recipe before you ruin the dish? They never tell you. But Kitchen Express addresses these common cooking dilemmas - and THAT in particular is what I find so appealing about Bittman's book.

Bittman starts off by giving a list of what to keep on hand and how to store it. He tells you straight up that he doesn't care how much garlic you use. If it ever does matter how much of an ingredient to use, he'll give an exact quantity. Otherwise, he's more vague. And that's nice because you no longer have to fret about whether your potatoes are medium size potatoes or whether the onion you have on hand will equal 1 cup when chopped.

Another thing I like is that he gives lists like "The Best Recipes for Reheating" and "The Best Recipes for Picnics." He also divides the recipes seasonally (101 recipes per season) to make it easy to spot a recipe that contains seasonal ingredients (and to hit the spot in hot or cold weather, like a chilled soup in summer or a hearty pasta in the winter). And he gives you a list of substitutions, so you know that if you don't have broccoli in the fridge, you can make the dish with cauliflower instead, no problem. Another thing I like is his consciousness of environmental issues - something that is rare to find in a mainstream cookbook. He tells readers to check out the Monterey Bay Aquarium's list of sustainable seafood to pick out a fish.

Last, I should say that the recipes look absolutely scrumptious. I think I had a few orgasms while flipping through the book. I may be a vegetarian, but I haven't been veg so long that I don't realize how amazing the Prosciutto, Peach, and Mozzarella Salad would taste. And I cannot WAIT to try making the Microwaved Honey Eggplant. Another winner is the Arugula with Balsamic Strawberries and Goat Cheese (although I can assure you I am NOT going to use arugula because I hate the stuff, and Bittman clearly states on his substitutions page that leafy greens can be swapped out for one another).

All in all, this book is very exciting. No wonder the chef I'm currently dating tells me he doesn't use cookbooks, but he uses Mark Bittman's cookbooks.  

Jill Richardson :: Mark Bittman's Kitchen Express
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Well, I hope he has a few (4.00 / 6)
Dalmatian pics in the book . . . .

Another thing I like is that he gives lists like "The Best Recipes for Reheating" and "The Best Recipes for Picnics." He also divides the recipes seasonally (101 recipes per season) to make it easy to spot a recipe that contains seasonal ingredients (and to hit the spot in hot or cold weather, like a chilled soup in summer or a hearty pasta in the winter)

Yes, some of us Dalmatian owners have spotty thoughts  ;)

So, is this cookbook out now? Or coming soon? Me wanna read . . . .


Bittman's book is available (4.00 / 5)
right now. Check your favorite bookseller.

[ Parent ]
Mark Bittman is great... (4.00 / 4)
but my philosophy has long been: compare & contrast a bunch of different recipes, selecting the ingredients that sound great (& are in your larder) and substituting at will.

The best brownies I ever made were done this way.  I used bittersweet chocolate plus cocoa powder, and they turned out great: but they were a synthesis of two different brownie recipes from two different cookbooks.

Have fun cooking, Jill, & I hope your book tour is going very well.

The most remarkable thing about my mother is that for thirty years she served the family nothing but leftovers. The original meal has never been found. -- Calvin Trillin


the index (4.00 / 5)
is really very good and makes the book even easier to use

great recommendation (4.00 / 5)
I use cookbooks as a jumping off point..ESPECIALLY now that I am eating mostly vegan. When there were 3 of us here,and only one vegan I always had to think of things that all of us would like.And I have noticed that my taste buds have changed.

And speaking of vegan...OH MY GOD their frozen desert is heavenly. And doesn't contain crap...

http://www.kovfoods.com/about....


Bittman is amazing (4.00 / 5)
I'll definitely pick up kitchen express. I'm a huge, huge Bittman fan. But don't write off all detailed recipes.

I've done a lot of cooking from 660 curries by rhaghavan iyer. the recipes are easy to make, pretty quick, and taste absolutely awesome. Worth all the effort to find black cardamon seeds and prepare different curry powders.


My personal cookbook maven (4.00 / 5)
never heard of him. But from the looks of it, sounds like the way she cooks anyway; stuff in season; proportions according to what's in the fridge.

And most importantly, she doesn't have "almost all of the ingredients" because she plans recipes at least a week ahead on time. So food shopping is to fill out her menu agenda.

Yankee Frugality: use it up, wear it out, make it last, or do without.


The old is new again... (4.00 / 3)
Bittman starts off by giving a list of what to keep on hand and how to store it. He tells you straight up that he doesn't care how much garlic you use. If it ever does matter how much of an ingredient to use, he'll give an exact quantity.

Most of the (1880's - 1940-ish) recipes in Mark Kurlansky's Food of a Younger Land were like that, as well.  A 'pinch' of this, a 'bit' of that, 'some' of the other.

I've seen the same thing in pretty much all of the heritage recipes I've found and have been bookmarking, in libraries and online, for some things I'm gonna write up soon (Oregon heritage foods, Jersey colonist-era meals, classic Polish recipes, etc...).  Maybe it's because measurements were less uniform back then?  But either way, I still prefer the freestyle ummm, 'style', of the way we used to do it.  And nobody can argue that people didn't cook often back then!

Throw in, mix and cook.  Do it by ear eye.  That's the way I've always done it, and I've never gotten any complaints!

:)

"The essence of the independent mind lies not in what it thinks, but in how it thinks." - Christopher Hitchens


Oh, and... (4.00 / 3)
You always need music while cooking.  That's (one of the many reasons) why Bryant Terry's Vegan Soul Kitchen was awesome...

:)

Wonder if Mark Bittman has the stereo on while cooking?  I know I do!

Festive cookout atmosphere, it's nice.  I even do it with breakfast, sometimes...

:)

"The essence of the independent mind lies not in what it thinks, but in how it thinks." - Christopher Hitchens


[ Parent ]
what do u listen to when cooking? (4.00 / 3)


[ Parent ]
Whatever I'm in the mood for... (4.00 / 1)
I'm very eclectic in my musical tastes - on any given day I could listen to everything from Jeff Buckley and Better Than Ezra and The Gin Blossoms, to Bob Seger and Van Morrison and Billy Joel, to Miles Davis and Jon Coltrane, to Grandmaster Flash & The Furious Five and Latee and The Juice Crew, to Rick James and Prince, to Archive and Portishead, to The Gap Band and The Isley Brothers and The Spinners and The Ohio Players and Lakeside, to James Taylor, to Bruuuuuuuuuce!, to Run DMC and Main Source, to Pink Floyd, to the Allman Brothers and beyond.  Don't have much country or classical here, but I'll listen to / stream the radio stations when I'm in the mood...

:)

These days though, it's been like all Jersey all the time in the kitchen.  No clue why, lol.  Just a phase, I guess...

Do you cook to music?

"The essence of the independent mind lies not in what it thinks, but in how it thinks." - Christopher Hitchens


[ Parent ]
sometimes... (4.00 / 1)
A few months ago I bought a surround sound stereo but thats in the front of the house. The reason I bought this was it had an ipod dock and was wireless ready. I can crank up speakers and listen in the kitchen. I have FIOS now and there are really good radio stations that I cook to. I like the show tunes station and the azz station. Billy Joel...huh..I once saw Bruce Springsteen in a really small venue and Billy Joel played piano..he was in Philly playing also.

Oh my...someone else who loves the Spinners..Truly under rated band..My FAVORITE SPINNERS song

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...


[ Parent ]
Would love to hear about that! (0.00 / 0)
I once saw Bruce Springsteen in a really small venue and Billy Joel played piano

Great thing about Bruce is that he "went Hollywood", then came back!

Heh, I've always told myself that if one of my many unfinished novels ever make me "big", first thing I'm doing is coming back to Passaic and Newark and putting all I got back into rebuilding community there...

:)

All back where I came from, heh.

Great song!  So many great songs, but my favorite Spinners song is (probably the predictable) "I'll Be Around".

Never, ever in the history of recorded music has there been a better song intro and break than that...

(humming song and searching for cd...)

:)

"The essence of the independent mind lies not in what it thinks, but in how it thinks." - Christopher Hitchens


[ Parent ]
heehee... (4.00 / 1)
I used to have a copy of Epicius' cookbook (in translation, of course) with the original recipes & modern -- i.e. amounts included -- versions of same.

The original Epicurean recipes would have been impossible for an average modern to replicate:  we don't know how they were supposed to taste; and Epicius didn't specify any amounts at all iirc: it was just a list of ingredients.

I don't follow recipes slavishly, obviously; and when baking bread, I work by touch more than measurement.  But for delicate things like cakes-from-scratch, I find that definite amounts are extremely useful.  With practice, you'll learn what you can fudge, and what you can't...but I don't bake enough cakes to really know that.

The most remarkable thing about my mother is that for thirty years she served the family nothing but leftovers. The original meal has never been found. -- Calvin Trillin


[ Parent ]
Oh yeah, great point... (4.00 / 1)
Baking is like chemistry, cooking is art...

:)

I don't bake, mainly because I give the middle finger to directions and instructions.  Heh...

Measurements are certainly necessary in baking.

"The essence of the independent mind lies not in what it thinks, but in how it thinks." - Christopher Hitchens


[ Parent ]
Well, not for yeast bread so much (4.00 / 1)
(it's very forgiving) but for the baking powder or baking soda stuff, yes, definitely.

BTW, swing by Friday's (the current) BNN, if you haven't already.  I linked to some sweet corn recipes that I think you and Ria might particularly enjoy.

The most remarkable thing about my mother is that for thirty years she served the family nothing but leftovers. The original meal has never been found. -- Calvin Trillin


[ Parent ]
Cool, thanks! (4.00 / 1)
Will be there soon.

Is it Friday already?!

:)

"The essence of the independent mind lies not in what it thinks, but in how it thinks." - Christopher Hitchens


[ Parent ]
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