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No Time to Cook - Too Busy Watching Food Network!

by: Jill Richardson

Wed Aug 05, 2009 at 06:00:00 AM PDT


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I must be an anomaly. I actually learned how to cook from Food Network. During two months in between my first post-college job and my second, I watched Food Network nearly nonstop... and then actually cooked the meals I saw prepared on TV. My favorite was Alton Brown, who taught me the science behind our food so I could better use ingredients when I cooked with recipes I found (even if I hadn't watched Mario Batali or Emeril cook them on TV first) or even recipes I improvised on my own. If you watch enough Food Network, you'll learn to spot patterns in how foods are cooked. Bring the water to a boil and salt it before you put the pasta in. Begin any soup by sauteing onions until translucent, then add garlic and other aromatics (celery, carrots). But according to Michael Pollan's latest article, I'm weird.

Americans love to watch other people cook, but we aren't so keen on cooking ourselves. And then there's the dumbing down of the verb "to cook." My first time living on my own after college, I asked my room mates if they cooked and one said "I just eat cereal, but Lindsey cooks." Later, while I was making a chickpea curry for myself (yes, from scratch... real scratch, not a Trader Joes mix), Lindsey saw me and remarked "Oh, you're REALLY cooking!" I wondered about it because I thought she supposedly cooked too - until I found out that her definition of cooking was removing the bag of French fries from the freezer and putting some on a cookie sheet in the oven. Oh boy.

Pollan includes a quote in his article from a food mrketing expert who thinks the trend towards convenience foods is irreversible:

"Here's an analogy," Balzer said. "A hundred years ago, chicken for dinner meant going out and catching, killing, plucking and gutting a chicken. Do you know anybody who still does that? It would be considered crazy! Well, that's exactly how cooking will seem to your grandchildren: something people used to do when they had no other choice. Get over it."

Pollan somewhat brilliantly compares how cooking show watchers of decades past actually learned how to cook from Julia Child whereas now, nobody learns jack squat from watching Iron Chef. And Food Network does give its stars an excellent platform to market their stuff.

But is this really the end of cooking? The same weekend Pollan's article was published, my city held urban homesteading workshops that were so popular people were crowded in the doorways, struggling to hear. We learned how to make hot sauce, kimchi and sauerkraut, cheese, and wheat flour - all from scratch. Real scratch, as Pollan would call it. Maybe there IS hope after all.

Jill Richardson :: No Time to Cook - Too Busy Watching Food Network!
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PBS did it for me (4.00 / 9)
Not having cable, PBS has been my source of cooking shows. Two shows have been had great influence on me, by teaching me specialized techniques and helped me understand the culture of food.

1) The "Baking with Julia" series that ran in the late 1990s taught me a lot about baking bread, cakes, cookies and so on. Julia's expert guests, her questions and commentary all brought subjects that are often not well described in cookbooks to life (e.g., certain bread shaping operations).

2) Until I started watching Rick Bayless' "Mexico: One Plate at a Time" series, I had more or less given up on Mexican food as plates covered with indifferent glop and then covered with too much melted cheese. Bayless showed me traditional salsa techniques, how to make authentic enchiladas, the basics of corn tortilla making, how these foods fit into the Mexican culture and how they evolved from the mixture of native and European influences.  


Julia and Jacques (4.00 / 6)
My favorite was the program with Julia and Jacques Pepin. I loved it when they simultaneously made their versions of the same dish, each commenting on the other's techniques and attitudes as they went along.

[ Parent ]
Food Network does three kinds of shows (4.00 / 6)
The first type, for want of a better word, is "food porn." Shows about how food gets made and packaged (Unwrapped, Secret Life Of..., Will Work For Food), shows about other people making food (Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, Throwdown, all the various barbecue documentaries and cake challenges) and that sort of thing. Fun to watch, but unless you're a professional or seriously unhinged not necessarily the kind of thing you are going to want to try to duplicate in your own kitchen. Food Detectives and The Next Food Network Star fit into this category IMO.

The second type is food as performance art. This overlaps with the food porn quite a bit, especially with the cake challenges and the like. Iron Chef America, Dinner: Impossible, Chopped and Ace of Cakes fit into this category.

And the third type is the Food As A Participatory Activity show. Good Eats, Rachel Ray's 30 Minute Meals, Aaron McCargo, Paula Dean and the like. Shows where you are encouraged to try the recipes you see on screen in your own kitchen.

To my mind, where the line falls between food as performance art and food as participatory activity depends on how comfortable you are in the kitchen. Some of Alton Brown's shows qualify as performance art to me because of the ingredients he uses, for instance. We don't have alcohol in our home at any level above whatever the yeast in the sourdough starter gives off so while his show on how to make the perfect martini was interesting from an intellectual point of view, he might as well have been making one of those six-foot Disney character cakes from Challenge for all the applicability it has to my own cooking. On the other hand, shows he did about how (and why) to age a steak in your own refrigerator, or making your own marshallows, might be useful someday, and I really like a chili con queso recipe from Emeril I found on the Food Network web site.

Likewise, there are people out there who don't cook as much as we do at our house and are content to just watch Alton or Paula or Emeril do their thing. I guess that's OK but it'd sure be nice if they could entice more people to get into their kitchens and try things out.

If you can't tell, I probably watch more Food Network shows than a mentally healthy person should. :)

I have succumbed to the Twitter craze. @Omir55


Food Network. (4.00 / 5)
I don't have television, but sometimes I house-sit for a person who does. My activities at her house are two.

1. Whatever I am told to do by Jewel, her cat.
2. Watch Food Network.


[ Parent ]
My problem with DD&D is (4.00 / 4)
I want all that stuff.

[ Parent ]
Well some of it anyway (4.00 / 5)
Some of the huge and weird burgers they show, I just look at and go, "Ewwwww." I mean, who needs a two pound burger?

But some of the stuff on there looks really, really good. My wife has said next time we take a road trip, we should look up DD&D's web site and see if there are any of the places Guy has showcased along the way. There are at least two in the area, including one I've driven past several times but never visited (Mike's Chili, just east of the Ballard Bridge in Seattle).

I have succumbed to the Twitter craze. @Omir55


[ Parent ]
Heh... (4.00 / 2)
I've never watched that show in my life, but at least once a year here in Portland I bump into people who ask me where I'm from... and after I answer they're like, you ever been to Rutt's Hut or Jimmy Buff's?

Lol.

Yeah, eaten at both.  And loved 'em.  Haven't always been a vegetarian...

:)

Still watching their show, and waiting for a feature on White Rose in Highland Park, or the White Manna in Jersey City or Hackensack.

:)

Coming soon to a Philadelphia near you!


[ Parent ]
I think I must be weird also (4.00 / 7)
I learned to cook very young, but I've always watched cooking shows. Even more in the past few years since I've been with the CSA. I got really excited when they did an Iron Chef from the GreenMarket, lol! I watch for ideas and such. All those pressure cookers and immersion blenders on IC had a good influence on me. The other shows I watch because of what they cook/cooking style. I skip shows that use too much processed to "cook", prepare what I consider consistent less healthy meals, etc. My food has gotten more flavorful and I'm def much more varied and inventive. Oh, and their "men geared" shows also appeal to my sports fan self {grin}

Speaking of cooking, I need to go "scratch" something together for lunch ;)


Gee, I must be weird too (4.00 / 8)
"Here's an analogy," Balzer said. "A hundred years ago, chicken for dinner meant going out and catching, killing, plucking and gutting a chicken. Do you know anybody who still does that? It would be considered crazy! Well, that's exactly how cooking will seem to your grandchildren: something people used to do when they had no other choice. Get over it."

We have seven extra roosters and they're the perfect size and still young at 4-5 months. Guess what we're going in a few days. We're also pretty much out of emu oil, so guess what else we're doing in the next few days.....

I really like Food Network, and I have a huge ammount of respect for the people on Iron Chef, Alton Brown, Giada DeLorentis, and everyone else. I love cooking and being as self sufficient as possible. Alton Brown is the single reason I can bake bread. When he explained that bread making used a formula as opposed to a recipe (although we all call bread making formulae recipes), I finally got it. In all my cook books, and all the recipes I had read over the years, no one had said that. Iron Chef and Emiril's shows I watch to glean new techniques and ways of putting ingredients together. Even the shows like Diners Drivins and Dives I can learn new ways to do things. I have a little TV in the kitchen and watch cooking shows while I'm cooking sometimes. I also have this laptop in the kitchen, and work online while I'm cooking.

Hey, wait, I think that does make me weird.....  ;-)

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....


What is emu oil? (4.00 / 5)
Is that analogous to chicken fat?

[ Parent ]
Emu oil. (4.00 / 4)
Egad.

I had no idea.


[ Parent ]
We use emu oil (4.00 / 5)
for artheritis and sore muscles, it's also good for getting rid of muscle cramps/charlie horses instantly. At $10/fluid ounce, raising emus is cost effective for Harold and me, we get about a gallon of oil per bird. If not for it, we'd both have to buy stock in the company that makes ibuprophin pain killers, and I'd need a new stomach.... The meat's great to eat too.

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....

[ Parent ]
Do you sell it? (4.00 / 6)
The oil?

[ Parent ]
I probably could (4.00 / 6)
I don't do any fancy rendering, just boiling in water twice, and it's not food grade. We use it topically for aches and pains. I also use it on the horses' hooves as a moisturizer. The stuff I render needs to be refrigerated, or better yet, frozen, when not in use. Stuff'll keep forever in the freezer, but will keep for months in the fridge.

Regarding locavores as elitists - explain to me how supporting local business is elitist....

[ Parent ]
Close your eyes... (4.00 / 5)
peek through your fingers:

population control cartoon


[ Parent ]
Alton's show is worth watching (4.00 / 6)
just for the food science, food history and general cooking tips he tosses out. I really really want a couple of those measuring devices he uses that look like a large plastic tube with a plunger inside for measuring things like sour cream or shortening. You draw the plunger back to the amount you want (2 cups for instance), fill the tube from the top of the plunger to the top of the tube, and squeeze it out. And then you wash the pieces. Minimal muss and fuss.

And Good Eats taught me to weigh my flour rather than measure it when I'm making bread machine bread. But I still just go by touch when I'm making sourdough, which never goes into the bread maker. When it feels right, it's ready to rise.

I have succumbed to the Twitter craze. @Omir55


[ Parent ]
I like Alton Brown but he uses way too much salt (4.00 / 5)
Back when we had a TV before it died and decided not to replace it, I liked to watch Alton Brown. However he uses way too much salt.

I can't remember how many times what I have eaten at restaurants or from pre-prepared foods have been unpleasantly salty. At one steak house I asked why the outside of my steak was so salty and the waitroid replied that their customers like the thrilling taste.

If I want salt on my food then I can add it at the table.

From my taste perspective there is only one type of food that needs salt during cooking and only one that needs salt after cooking.

1) Boiled starch such as potatoes, pasta, or rice needs salt because such starch tastes really bland otherwise. (then again I once used a jar of Indian Tiki-Masalla paste that was so salty that the prepared dish could only be served on unsalted rice). And oh yes bread needs a little salt to un-bland it.

2) High fat dishes such as french fries or pesto sauce with a lot of olive oil. For some reason salt balances out the taste of fat - but this salt can be added at the table. From what I've read fat doesn't have a dedicated taste bud (like Salty, Sour, Sweet, Bitter, and Umami) to report that a fatty food is good to eat but instead fat stimulates all 'good food' taste buds. I have no idea  about how salt makes fat taste better.

I like some sorts of salty prepared foods, from olives to salami, but I wish cooking show hosts or corporation manufactures would not assume that everybody's taste buds have been burned out from too much salt and thus they need to add even more salt to promote their food.


[ Parent ]
Yeah I have some extra roosters too (4.00 / 4)

I missed the young window though so they will be stewers and slow cooker birds.  I just started raising chickens this year and it was something that I just wasn't sure I'd be able to do. Well it seems like I can and the fact that I have a hen that's now sitting on a clutch it's become more imperative, though I'm not doing it myself. It is a really messy process and beyond that fact that I'm not sure I could do the actual killing cut I don't have the set-up to do it. Perhaps it's also the stories from my Mom who talked about the yearly chicken and turkey kill and how long it took to get the smell and icky stuff to disappear from my Grandmothers kitchen. :D  For three bucks each it can be done at my local butchering place which is already set-up to do it. IMV money well spent.  :D  

[ Parent ]
Not cooking (4.00 / 5)
From my prior comment:

Our country is afflicted with a convenience mania that is so severe we actually have a market for pre-cooked white rice. I don't mean "instant" nutrition-free dry rice, I mean pre-cooked rice, available in pouches at Costco and other establishments near you. Expensive, sure. Crazy? Perhaps it is, but there's a market for it.


I'd consider buying some (4.00 / 5)
and putting it in my emergency kit so I'd have something to eat if the power ever goes out.

But in general, rice isn't that hard to make, especially if you have a rice maker.

Omir's cooking tip for the day: My wife thinks I'm weird (and this isn't the only reason why) because I make rice in the oven. I'll heat the oven to 300° or so, put 4 cups of rice and 6 cups of hot liquid (water, chicken broth, whatever) in a big Club aluminum pot we have, cover it and bake the whole thing for about 20-30 minutes. Perfect rice every time.

I have succumbed to the Twitter craze. @Omir55


[ Parent ]
Great idea. (4.00 / 4)
I've never baked rice, but I like the idea. That takes about the same time as the stovetop way, with no risk of burning the rice, right? If you don't take the rice out of the oven at exactly the right time, so what? And your technique is perfectly suitable for other grains. Elegantly simple and simply elegant.

The main reason I never baked rice is, I never thought of it. Also, though, I admit to a long-time love affair with rice cookers, and I never wanted to make that much rice at one time.

Once upon a time, years ago, I experimented with various rice pudding recipes, some of which began with raw rice and were oven-baked. I should re-visit this area of cooking, expanding the concept to include other grains.

Thanks for the ideas, Omir.


[ Parent ]
Yeah, pretty much (4.00 / 4)
Rice takes about 20 minutes to absorb the liquid whether you're cooking it on the stovetop, in the microwave or in the oven, so if you heat the liquid to close to boiling before you add it in you should be pretty close to 20 minutes. Even if you don't it doesn't take that long to heat up the liquid in the oven.

I've never burned the rice by doing this. I'm not sure it's impossible, but since no direct heat is being applied anywhere, I don't think it's likely unless you're putting the rice in a blast furnace or something. The worst you would do IMO is to dry the rice out, and since it's covered even that might be a bit difficult.

I hadn't thought of doing this with quinoa, emmer, oats or any of the other grains that get talked about 'round these parts sometimes, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

As for making lots of rice at one time, well, we have grandkids who would eat rice until it came out their ears if allowed to. Leftover rice is a self-correcting problem at our house. And it keeps well, and I've always liked having a few cups of rice in the fridge the day after we cook it so I can just throw in some vegetables, some egg, a bit of meat, some sauce and voila, fried rice, one of my favorite dishes.

I have succumbed to the Twitter craze. @Omir55


[ Parent ]
Pollan calls out another of my WTF candidates (4.00 / 6)
factory-made, packed-in-plastic, perhaps frozen, peanut butter and jelly sandwiches.

I mean, really. Such abominations should be a national embarrassment. I should point and jeer loudly at the sight of this in someone's shopping basket, but I guess I'm too Minnesotan.


[ Parent ]
I will admit that I do have some of those on hand (4.00 / 4)

they're in the freezer. I also have some pre-made 'meals' in the freezer. The majority of the time I cook pretty much from scratch and I do cook my own pre-made meals, but there are occasions when life gets super crazy, I'm dead tired, I'm out of my own pre-done cooking and I need to just get the hole filled with something quick and easy but I am well aware what's in them and really it's just a stop gap measure.

I just can't imagine depending on that stuff and eating like that all of the time though. When I was in the midst of a renovation project that type of stuff was a real lifesaver but after about two weeks on it I didn't feel like I normally feel. It was like my own Supersize Me experience, even though it wasn't McDonalds I could feel the difference and was so glad to get back to normalcy. Sometimes I think that if it was possible for convenience dependent non-cooking people to just cook more with whole foods and from scratch for just a month the 'how they feel' factor would override all the crazy convenience factors.  


[ Parent ]
No TV - Outrageous Mayonnaise (4.00 / 7)
No TV to speak of. We have a converter on the upstairs TV, but never watch there except for a few minutes waking up in the morning. And no cable into the house. That doesn't stop Mrs.B from reading food mags with a vengeance... much to my benefit. ;-)

Outrageous Mayonnaise:

Free Range Egg Yolks
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Balsamic Vinegar
Coleman's Dry Mustard
Pacific Sea Salt
Paprika

I just made this this afternoon. It's a deep yellow/brown color.

To. Die. For.


Yankee Frugality: use it up, wear it out, make it last, or do without.


Worth the effort (4.00 / 6)
The Pollan article is quite long, but worth the time and effort to read, I think. He's thoughtful and thought-provoking, as always. I can't think of anything I disagreed with, though, so maybe I'm just a hopeless suck-up.

I particularly agree with the concluding Balzer quote:

"Easy. You want Americans to eat less? I have the diet for you. It's short, and it's simple. Here's my diet plan: Cook it yourself. That's it. Eat anything you want - just as long as you're willing to cook it yourself."

That is at least an excellent first step, even if it isn't the entire answer.

I wish I could erase this image from my mind - battered deep-fried cinammon buns.


Well thanks for subjecting the rest of us to it (4.00 / 5)
Does it come with its own cardiac insurance plan?

If I ever get tired of living and want to go out in style, I'll fix myself one of those. Between the heart attack and the blood sugar spike something's bound to lay me out.

I have succumbed to the Twitter craze. @Omir55


[ Parent ]
Jill, Pollan didn't say (4.00 / 2)
that nobody learns to cook from watching Food Network...just that all the how-to-cook shows are on during the day when most of us are at work.  (I used to watch them on weekend afternoons...my elderly father had a crush on a number of the cooks, including Paula, Rachel & Giada, so he enjoyed watching too.)

The most remarkable thing about my mother is that for thirty years she served the family nothing but leftovers. The original meal has never been found. -- Calvin Trillin

Oh, P.S., I learned (4.00 / 2)
how to make latkes from a show where Rachel (I think it was Rachel) interviewed a 90-year-old Canadian woman who showed how she made them.  It wasn't a recipe in the sense of x amount of this and y amount of that, but after I watched very closely I was able to replicate them at home.

The most remarkable thing about my mother is that for thirty years she served the family nothing but leftovers. The original meal has never been found. -- Calvin Trillin

[ Parent ]
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