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What Do Low Income Americans Think About Sustainable Food?

by: Jill Richardson

Wed Apr 29, 2009 at 20:00:00 PM PDT


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The food justice movement spends countless hours and dollars trying to help low-income Americans obtain access to fresh, healthy food, but what do low-income folks want? Clearly, people want to be able to eat, but do they think "organic" means "yuppie food"? An article by Caroline B. Webber and Jamie S. Dollahite called "Attitudes and Behaviors of Low-Income Food Heads of Households Toward Sustainable Food Concepts" set out to address that.

(The article was published last year in the Journal of Hunger & Environmental Nutrition.)

Jill Richardson :: What Do Low Income Americans Think About Sustainable Food?
The article was nearly all good news. The study focused on 3 different areas (rural, urban, and suburban) and included 28 participants. Of the 28, 18 were considered "food insecure" and 16 of those 18 were "food insecure with hunger." And - perhaps the best news of all - all participants were aware of nearby farmers' markets and all but 3 had visited them "with favorable reviews."

So what did the participants say? They said a lot of the same things any other group of people (regardless of income) would probably say. They want to feed their families and they care about their health and particularly their children's health. They get that fruits and vegetables are good for you. They don't want to eat foods with pesticides. And one of my favorite quotes was about tomatoes genetically engineered to stand up to long-distance travel: "Nobody's going to buy a broken tomato in the store. They're trying to boost their sales. They don't care about people's health." YUP.

Does that mean that these folks are buying organic? Well, not really. Many were unfamiliar with the term. When it was explained, some were interested and some weren't. Some didn't buy organics because they were too expensive, and others because they weren't even available where they shopped. Only one purchased organics when she could. The rest had to settle for scrubbing non-organic veggies and hoping it got the pesticides off.

So if they weren't looking for the organic certification label, what did they want from their produce? Freshness was #1 and taste was #2. As for buying local? "Many participants had not given much if any thought to the point of origin of their food and appeared surprised by the question..." but a few DID care about where their food came from. Some cared because they figured that foods grown in other countries with lax regulations might be less safe, and others believed local food would reach the market sooner and thus be fresher when purchased. And one woman noted that when you know the farmer, then you can make sure they "didn't put any chemicals on [the food] and stuff like that."

That said, it seems that buying local resonated a lot more with the group for economic justice reasons, particularly buying directly from farmers. This was true particularly for the participants from rural sites. They liked that when you buy local, you are putting your money back into your own community. The suburban site had just lost its grocery store and they were left with limited food options. Those participants in particular were appreciative of the Amish farmers that sold them fresh produce.

Some participants liked to garden and four in particular noted that they'd rather grow their own food than accept charity of government programs. Several were not able to garden for one reason or another but were still very positive about the idea of growing fresh food without pesticides. Barriers included lack of time, skill, land, and tools, among other things.

When it came to farmers' market shopping, some had trouble getting there due to transportation issues or timing (i.e. the market occurred during the work-week), and others had trouble with the prices. One woman said "I find in general people today can only afford to eat junk food, and you cannot afford to eat healthy. If money was not an issue we would eat a thousand times better as far as quantity or quality." Amen to that.

In short, it seems that the participants of the study were pretty savvy on food issues, more or less. Obviously they were limited by reality in many cases (i.e. unable to buy from farmers markets or garden), and perhaps they haven't studied up on the numerous food issues out there in a way that makes them familiar with terms like "organic," but all in all, they get it. They know they want fresh, healthy, tasty food, and they know they don't want to eat pesticides. They understand economic justice (i.e. buying from local farmers and businesses to support your community) and they take pride in supporting their communities. And they are familiar with farmers' markets, roadside stands, or other ways to buy food directly from farmers and most have done so at least once in the past two years.

In other words, if the participants of the study are representative of other people in their communities, then the reason why people aren't eating better (to the extent that they aren't eating well right now) is probably more attributable to a lack of availability and access to good food instead of a lack of awareness or interest in it.

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The neighborhood where I work (4.00 / 4)
is seriously underserved by supermarkets.  There is a farmer's market downtown, but it's a long enough walk that most people won't want to go there (& the prices in any case are not better than the supermarkets, overall).  It's also only open on Tues. & Fri. until 4 p.m. and Sat. until 2 p.m.

So the poorest people: those without cars: are basically f*cked.  Or they have a very long walk to get to someplace with fresh produce.

There are buses, of course, but then you have to factor in the bus fare, plus lugging your groceries home from the nearest bus stop.

I am thinking that one solution is to restore the old food wagons: buy from local farmers insofar as possible, and take the food to the people.  It might not be organic, but it would be fresh.

The most remarkable thing about my mother is that for thirty years she served the family nothing but leftovers. The original meal has never been found. -- Calvin Trillin


I've been playing with that idea for a while... (4.00 / 4)
I am thinking that one solution is to restore the old food wagons

I was thinking about trying to organize something like that years ago, back in Newark.  

And for that matter, People's Grocery in Oakland, CA has already made it work locally -

In 2003, the group painted an old postal truck with bright graffiti lettering, loaded it with healthy, packaged foods and organic produce from local gardens, and starting making the rounds in West Oakland-often playing a hip hop soundtrack during the journey. By 2004, the "Mobile Market" served roughly 3,500 of the area's 30,000 residents each year.

For all the market's accomplishments, though, it was a means, not an end, says Ahmadi. Without a business background, the group had to build a reputation for handling food marketing in West Oakland, while also convincing local residents to seek out fresher, healthier foods. By all accounts, it was a success, and it came with a surprising realization.

"When we put together the initial product mix, we made an assumption that it had to be foods [local people] knew," says Ahmadi, who initially stocked vegan cookies and other healthier versions of common items. Instead of luring locals on a snack run, the market ended up filling a niche established by People's Grocery through their nutrition education classes. "People started requesting tofu and miso," says Ahmadi, who'd been pushing the ingredients in class. "They came back and demanded products that they [had learned] about."

Anybody who's ever wandered around West Oakland knows what a major contribution that is to the community...


[ Parent ]
Heh...now all we need is (4.00 / 1)
a mule, a cart, and the money to get things started.  ;-D

The most remarkable thing about my mother is that for thirty years she served the family nothing but leftovers. The original meal has never been found. -- Calvin Trillin

[ Parent ]
my daughter goes to Swarthmore college (4.00 / 5)
while its a small and elite place, there's a real commitment to social change. And Swarthmore is also very close to Chester which is one of the poorest cities in the US. She's working with a group of people to get a food coop off the ground in Chester.

I remember Chester... (4.00 / 2)
Used to pass through there every so often after picking friends up in Philly and heading down to Wilmington.

Great news about the co-op there!  Best of luck to them, that city definitely needs something...


[ Parent ]
Just came back from the farmer's market (4.00 / 4)
It's near Chinatown, and there were large numbers of elderly Chinese ladies, knowledgeably picking through the peas. A group of Muslim women, sometimes in full burqa, show up, trying to haggle with Mexican farmers. There are quite a few black women who work nearby in the mix. The market is always packed.

Point being that if you locate a farmer's market downtown, shoppers will show. Shoppers have to be able to get to food easily.

The whole point of supermarkets with a parking lot is to make it as easy as possible for people to spend a lot of money and cart a lot of stuff home. We have to make it just as easy for people (including people with three kids, people who have mobility problems and the elderly) to buy good food from local farmers


Sounds like a great one! (4.00 / 1)
One of my favorite markets here in Portland is the (aptly named) Lents International farmers' market.  You see a lot of veggies you wouldn't typically see in the other markets, along with large numbers of people from other countries all over the world doing things their own way.  Portland's got a very large immigrant & refugee community from many countries, and this market is in outer East Portland where most of those families settle.  It's also in the poorest section of the city, so it's great that it's as big as it is and lets the poeple who live in 'The Other Portland' in on what the rest of us have all over the rest of the city.

And to top it all off, it's fun!  :)


[ Parent ]
From a farm market manager in DC (4.00 / 2)
The HSC foundation did a nice set of focus groups on a broader set of issues healthy lifestyle issues among lower income Washingtonians http://www.hscfoundation.org/a...  

I am forever trying to make the markets I work with more appealing to lower income consumers. The good news is that there is certainly a positive response to the idea of buying locally from a farmer you know.  Many African Americans have at least some direct connection with a relative with a farm, usually somewhere much further South.

But,there are several obstacles:  1) The whole seasonality emphasis runs directly counter to the "make a list and stick to it" advice that social workers and any Momma with a lick of sense would tell someone on a budget.  The frustrating thing is that the price isn't always higher.

2) The farming population is nowhere near as diverse as it should be.  There is a horrible history that has created this situation., but to some degree our latino and African American neighbors lose some sense of connectedness to community farmers.

3) The dire but abstracted language of the environmental movement tends to lose, even alienate, a lot of people with pressing economic concerns.  Sure they are worried about feeding pesticides to their kids, but warnings about the effect on the climate of buying Chilean grapes on sale in February gets some serious eye-rolling.  Those grapes may be the healthiest thing likely to go into the lunchbox.

Bottom line is that there are a lot of smart, stressed, well meaning people talking past each other.



Thanks I'll take a look. nt (0.00 / 0)


"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
It's a bit (4.00 / 1)
off-putting when the poor are spoken of as though they are objects beyond a barrier who apparently surprise some folk when they can both speak and share a common opinion with those unlike themselves.  Mere objects of observation.
The co-op in the community where I live has premium pricing..1/2 gallon of organic milk is nearly $6, a dozen local eggs is over $4, and the farmers market is set up in a location that isn't "friendly" to the common man.  The South maintains it's adored system of "class distinctions" with pricing, by pricing out those with whom they don't want to mingle.

do you think I dealt with this topic (0.00 / 0)
in an offensive way? I certainly did not mean to.

"I can understand someone from Iowa promoting corn and soy, but we are not feeding the world, we are feeding animals and soft drink companies." - Jim Goodman

[ Parent ]
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